Manure mineral fertilizer. Mineral fertilizers

The right choice is the key to an excellent harvest.

nitrogen fertilizers

What does nitrogen affect when growing vegetables

It is thanks to nitrogen that cultures develop, grow larger, and become strong. It is especially necessary at the stage of growth, so that in the future the plant has the strength to form fruits.

With a lack of nitrogen, the plant develops poorly, the leaves become pale, and in more severe cases, the entire shoot turns yellow, the leaves fall off, the fruit ovaries may crumble, and the fruits that have managed to form grow small.

With an excess of nitrogen, plants grow very large, with dark green leaves, the main energy goes to the greens, and therefore the fruits can ripen slowly.

In addition, such plants are more susceptible to frost.

An overdose of nitrogen fertilizers can be dangerous due to the deposition of nitrates in fruits, which become dangerous to eat.

Application of nitrogen fertilizers

Nitrogen fertilizers are best applied in the spring, when plants need the most support to grow. better growth. In the summer, the fruits are already tied and sung (excess nitrogen should not interfere with this), and in the fall the plants are preparing for winter (excess nitrogen can become dangerous due to the likelihood of the first frosts).

To make up for the deficiency of nitrogen, urea or ammonium nitrate should be added (in diluted form - 4-8 g / m2, in dry form - 10-25 g / m2). Scatter the fertilizer in an even thin layer over the surface of the soil, and then pour abundantly or dilute 1 tbsp. l. fertilizer in 10 liters of water.

Phosphate fertilizers

What does phosphorus affect when growing vegetables

Phosphorus is a very important element in the formation of fruits, it is thanks to him that they ripen in a timely manner, they turn out to be large, tasty.

With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves acquire a characteristic bluish or lilac hue on the undersides, in general they become dark green in color, and may become brown spots. The fruits are poorly tied, ripen for a long time, some do not have time to ripen at all by the end of the season.

With an excess of phosphorus, the plant turns yellow, the leaves become wrinkled, fall off, it quickly ages.

Too much phosphorus in the soil leads to a lack of manganese.

Application of phosphate fertilizers

Phosphorus fertilizers can be applied in the spring before sowing, but even better in the fall, as this element is well retained in the soil. The fertilizer is scattered and dug deep so that the phosphorus is in the deep layers, where the main volume of the roots will be. To make up for the deficiency of phosphorus, 15-20 g / m 2 of double superphosphate should be scattered.

potash fertilizers

What does potassium affect when growing vegetables

Potassium is a regulator of many life processes of plants, the rate of absorption of nutrients, sunlight, resistance to low temperatures and diseases depend on it. With a lack of potassium, the plant as a whole slows down its development and becomes more susceptible to adverse factors. A characteristic symptom of potassium deficiency is the "burn" of the edges of the leaves, and in severe cases, they twist and dry out. Their color becomes dull, with a bronze tint. The stem is thin and lifeless.

With an excess of potassium, the leaves have a dark green tint, young leaves are too small. There is a lack of magnesium, calcium, zinc and some other elements.

When and how to apply potash fertilizers

Potash fertilizers are applied in autumn for deep digging, as they usually contain harmful chlorine, which has time to wash out before spring. To make up for the lack of potassium, use 30 g / m 2 of potassium chloride or potassium magnesia.

What does calcium affect when growing vegetables?

Calcium is involved in photosynthesis, in nitrogen and carbohydrate metabolism and in the mechanism of cell permeability. With its deficiency, whitening of the leaves appears, the tips of the roots die off, the flowers and ovaries fall off, the bones form poorly, the young leaves grow small, pale and crooked. Calcium deficiency is observed on acidic soils, as well as with an excess of potassium.

An excess of calcium is observed in violation of the absorption of potassium and nitrogen, expressed in chlorosis, and the bones and shells become too thick.

When and how to apply lime fertilizer

The introduction of calcium is carried out by liming, which at the same time alkalizes the soil. Therefore, depending on the acidity of the soil, a different amount of fertilizer is applied. If necessary, plants can be fed with calcium nitrate or calcium chloride (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), however, cases of a lack of this element are rare.

To talk in detail about all fertilizers, you need a reference book at least twice as long as this book. But you can briefly answer the question of which fertilizers are best given to vegetables - those to which they respond better. Some vegetables respond better to organic fertilizers, others to mineral fertilizers, and still others to combined ones (a mixture of organic and mineral fertilizers).

The basis of plant nutrition is 3 elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and all of them are in organic fertilizers. Minerals, depending on the content of nutrients in them, are divided into nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and complex (in which there are 2-3 elements, for example, nitroammophoska, or NPK). In addition to them, there are microfertilizers from elements that plants need only in small quantities, such as sulfur, calcium, iron, copper, magnesium, manganese, boron, zinc, etc. If they are not enough, plants get sick. As a rule, microfertilizers are used only for foliar top dressing (except for magnesium sulfate, which, like the main fertilizer, is applied to the soil).

Mineral fertilizers

The most commonly used fertilizers nitrogen- these are ammonium and sodium nitrate and urea, but they also include all fertilizers whose names contain the words "ammonium", "ammonia" or "nitrate".

The most common phosphoric fertilizers - simple and double superphosphate (it must always be taken half as much as simple). In addition to them, there are precipitate, tomasslag, thermophosphate, etc.

The most common potash fertilizers potassium chloride and potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate).

complex there are fewer mineral fertilizers, and they are not very convenient because the ratio of the three main elements in them - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium - cannot be regulated (and in some periods of life different vegetables some of the elements may require more). The most famous of the complex fertilizers are ammophos (nitrogen + phosphorus), potassium nitrate (potassium + nitrogen) and nitroammophoska (all 3 elements)

Complex mineral fertilizers are concentrated, in which the ratio of elements is selected both for different types of plants and for different stages of growth (for example, "Bud" during budding). They cost more than all those listed, but in small areas and in greenhouses, they give the best results.

organic fertilizers

Manure- the most common organic fertilizer- used both fresh and rotted. It has all the main elements and many trace elements. Some vegetables (especially root crops) do not tolerate fresh manure. The main disadvantage of this fertilizer is that it contains many pathogens that are dangerous for plants. Completely rotted manure is considered another fertilizer and is called humus. In addition, you can make slurry from manure yourself - mullein, and its concentrate - "Humisol" is sold in stores.

Mullein prepared from fresh manure and water (1:3). Manure should be placed in a container, filled with water, closed with a lid and until bubbles appear from time to time open and mix. Bubbles appeared - it means that he has already fermented. Before use, the mullein must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10-15.

Humus- This is a well-rotted manure. It takes a long time to prepare, sometimes up to 2 years, but in general it is almost the same as compost (only the original product is different): they put it in a hole, close it so that there is very little air coming into it, and wait until it completely decomposes. During overheating, the temperature of the humus rises, and pathogens of various diseases die from this. The temperature must be regulated by blocking the access of air if it rises too much (the quality of the "early" humus is worse), or by increasing the access if the humus warms up too slowly, otherwise it will be ready much later. Ready humus has the appearance of a dark brown friable mass.

Compost differs from humus in that, in addition to manure, it contains peat and all kinds of vegetable and food waste (leaf leaves, weeds, scraps, etc.), and manure is not added at all to some varieties of compost. Due to the fact that there are more components in the compost than in humus, they must be laid in a special way in a pit or stack - alternating layers: for example, 10-15 cm of manure is placed on 30-40 cm of Peat, then again peat, again manure or household waste, etc. - up to 2 m high. The layers do not need to be compacted, and the heap or pit should be covered from above with a layer of earth or dense material (for example, tarpaulin). While the mass is overheating, it is necessary to control the heating, as with humus - in dry weather, moisten with water and shovel several times over the summer. With temperature control, the compost will be ready in 4-5 months, without it - not earlier than in a year.

bird droppings- highly concentrated fertilizer, it should always be diluted with water or prepare a fermented solution (1 part of dry bird droppings to 200 parts of water, cooked like mullein)

Peat some consider it a fertilizer, some do not. It has all the necessary elements, but in very small quantities (little more than just in the ground), so it is used more often for mulch or as a loose component of ground mixtures for seedlings.

Organic fertilizers include "green fertilizers" - green manure. These are the greens of all legumes, rye, alfalfa, vetch, oil radish, mouse peas, nettles and many weeds, in which the greens quickly overheat after embedding in the soil.

Is your region famous for its fertile black soil? You are very lucky! However, even the most fertile soil after several years of active exploitation gradually loses its beneficial properties. Not in vain in large agriculture the fields are left in turn “under fallow”, giving the land a little rest and “recovering”.

In a small garden with an area of ​​three or four acres, of course, leaving even a piece of land “fallow” is already inappropriate - the site is used to the maximum, which ultimately leads to a decrease in productivity and soil depletion.

And even the alternation in the beds of different crops, which differ in the degree of exactingness to the soil, which we talked about in the article about garden planning, does not always give a noticeable effect.

That is why, in order to increase productivity and make the most of the possibilities of a small garden, fertilizers are used almost annually. What types of such useful soil additives exist? What is the difference, how and when are they used?

The resources of even the most fertile soil are depleted over time, and neither a large farm nor a tiny household plot can do without fertilizers.

Fertilizer classification

The word "fertilizer" is used to call a variety of substances in which there are elements that are useful and nutritious for plants. Fertilizers are not for nothing that they have such a “speaking” name - their main goal is to fertilize, make the land “kinderer” and more fertile and, as a result, achieve a good harvest.

All fertilizers are divided into two large groups - organic and mineral. Organic, as the name implies, chemicals have nothing to do - these are environmentally friendly fertilizers that arose, so to speak, in a natural way, with little or no human intervention. The composition of organic fertilizers includes organisms contained in the remains of plants and animal waste, as well as various microorganisms that are involved in the process of decomposition of these residues.

Organic fertilizers include: manure, bird droppings, compost (plant residues), humus, peat, wood ash and lake silt.

Mineral fertilizers are inorganic compounds that contain plant nutrients in the form of mineral salts. Mineral fertilizers are divided into nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and complex. Unlike organic fertilizers that occur naturally, mineral fertilizers are products of chemical production and the work of man.

Such ready-made fertilizers produced at chemical plants contain high concentrations of useful substances; complex mineral additives contain several types of substances.

In large farms, fertilizers are scattered using special equipment, and gardeners will have to manually “feed” their plants in the beds

Features of different types of fertilizers

We note right away that usually there are much fewer problems with mineral fertilizers - they are sold in factory-made packaging, already completely ready for use. Gardeners who have chosen just this type of useful additives can only purchase the right amount of fertilizer in bags and scatter it around their site. Convenient and simple, right? In addition, the manufacturer immediately indicates on the packaging what type of soil it is suitable for. this species ready-made mineral mixture, for which plants it is intended and in what dosage it is used.

Nitrogen mineral fertilizers are usually represented by ammonium nitrate - this is a universal type of useful additive that is suitable for almost all plants and most different types soil. The use of saltpeter is very simple - it is sold in bags in the form of granules and is usually simply scattered on the beds immediately before planting. Remember, nitrogen is easily washed out with water, so it is useless to add ammonium nitrate in the fall.

Phosphate fertilizers are represented by phosphate rock and superphosphates. Such additives are made from phosphorite or apatite. Phosphorite flour dissolves in the soil gradually, so it will be a useful additive for plants for more than one season. This type of fertilizer is more often used on acidic soils. Superphosphate is phosphorite or apatite treated with sulfuric acid. This fertilizer is sold in granules, it is used directly when planting plants, once a season.

Potash fertilizers are mainly potassium chloride and 40% potassium salt. They are also easily washed out with water, so they can be used several times a season to feed plants.

These white "grains" of ammonium nitrate can be scattered by hand over the beds immediately before planting seedlings, potato tubers or seeds

Organic fertilizers, it would seem, do not need to be produced - here they are, they arose in nature on their own. However, such organic additives cannot be used in their original form - special, often quite lengthy preparation is required.

So, fresh manure it will only harm the plants and “bring” a lot of weed seeds to your garden. Before using such animal waste as fertilizer, they must lie down and soak for some time (at least a year, and preferably two years). Such matured manure is called humus and it is truly an indispensable and universal fertilizer. If fresh manure can only be used to feed cucumbers, pumpkins and cabbages and is usually applied to the beds in the fall, for digging, then all vegetables and flowers, without exception, will definitely be “delighted” with humus and it can be applied at any time of the year.

Poultry manure is considered the richest in nutrients and the fastest type of organic fertilizer. It can be used even fresh, simply diluted with water or scattered between plants. long time chicken manure can be stored together with earth, peat, straw or sawdust without losing its useful properties. A popular way to use this type of organic fertilizer is to dilute it with water in a special container. You can also make already dry bird droppings, directly during planting and during the warm season, to feed vegetables.

Compost, that is, prepared plant residues, also requires a fairly long storage. To prepare this type of organic fertilizer, it is necessary to build a box or other container in a shady place of the site, where all the remains of plants will be poured - roots, leaves, shoots, grass torn from the site. Wood ash can be added to this pile of plant residues, and it must be covered with a layer of soil or straw on top. In this form, the compost is stored for at least a year. In finished form, it looks like a fairly homogeneous dark mass.

Remember - compost is applied to the beds in the fall, before deep digging up the garden. For greater effect, it must mix well with the soil, so such an additive will not only increase the content useful substances in the ground, but also improve the quality of the soil itself.

Compost box - irreplaceable source nutrients for plants

The remaining organic fertilizers - peat and lake silt (aka sapropel) - also need to be prepared before use. In particular, peat is recommended to be composted beforehand, like other plant residues. However, it is problematic to stock up on such organic fertilizers on your own. Find a peat bog, remove the top layer of earth, cut the peat into pieces, bring it to the site ... A laborious process. And the extraction of silt from the bottom of the lake will not give pleasure to any gardener.

Today, most often peat is purchased ready-made, and lake silt cannot be called a popular type of fertilizer precisely because of its inaccessibility. Although there are production facilities in our country that specialize in the extraction from ecologically clean lakes and the subsequent processing of sapropel, so you can also purchase such ready-made fertilizers.

Peat and lake silt are brought to the land in spring or autumn, before digging the garden. Remember that sapropel has a very long shelf life - it is applied to the soil no more than once every ten years!

Lake silt or sapropel is mined only in ecologically clean reservoirs, as heavy metals and other harmful substances can accumulate in it

What to choose

So, we figured out that there are many fertilizers. So what to choose? Consider the main advantages and disadvantages of organic and mineral additives.

Advantages of mineral fertilizers:

1. Ease of use, the ability to purchase ready-to-use mixtures with perfect proportion useful substances.
2. Due to the high concentration of nutrients, mineral fertilizers require much less than organic ones. Only three to four kilograms of ready-made fertilizers per one hundred square meters of a garden will replace 400 kilograms of compost or manure.
3. With the help of mineral fertilizers, it is possible to control not only the yield, but even the quality of vegetables. For example, after the application of potash fertilizers, it is the tubers of plants that grow better.

Despite all the above advantages of mineral fertilizers, a huge number of gardeners are distrustful of this "brainchild" of chemical products. Often, nitrates and nitrites are called real poisons, considering that eating vegetables grown using such fertilizers is harmful to health. It is worth recognizing that such an opinion is justified.

Disadvantages of mineral fertilizers:

1. The likelihood of an overdose. Scientists unanimously argue that the harm of mineral fertilizers is greatly exaggerated, and they bring a lot of benefits. However, it has been proven that an overdose of ammonium nitrate and other mineral additives can indeed cause poisoning, the accumulation of harmful substances in plants and the death of plantings. Mineral fertilizers must be applied very carefully, carefully observing the dosage, following the instructions indicated by the manufacturer.
2. High price. Unlike such "gifts of nature" as compost and manure, mineral fertilizers can only be bought and often ready-made mixtures will be quite expensive, especially given the large area of ​​​​the site.
3. It is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers annually, especially for potassium and nitrogen fertilizers, which are quickly washed out with water.

The main advantage of mineral fertilizers can be called the ease of use - it is much easier to scatter finished granules over the beds than manure or compost.

Advantages of organic fertilizers:

1. The use of organic additives increases the content of extremely useful humus in the soil.
2. The physical properties of the soil also improve: it becomes looser, it is easier to dig such soil, the soil perfectly passes moisture, heat and air, providing good seedling survival, fast seed germination and root crop growth.
3. The application of organic fertilizers allows you to activate all plant resources and soil organisms.
4. Organic fertilizers contain a much larger set of micro and macro elements than the most complex mineral mixture.
5. In addition to useful elements, natural fertilizers also contain physiologically active substances.
6. Organic fertilizers can be prepared by yourself without spending a dime.
7. If mineral fertilizers need to be applied annually, then organic fertilizers should be applied no more than once every three to four years, and in the case of using sapropel, once every ten years. They have a longer lasting effect.

Disadvantages of organic fertilizers:

1. Fresh manure can burn plants and must be used very carefully, such as diluting with water and only watering the soil between plantings.
2. Organic fertilizers are needed more than mineral ones.
3. The introduction of humus or compost is associated with hard work - you need not only to scatter a heavy mass around the garden, but also immediately dig up the beds until the useful nitrogen has disappeared from the fertilizer.
4. It will not be possible to determine the exact amount of nutrients in organic fertilizers, so it will not work to control the quality of vegetables.
5. Growing onions and carrots immediately after fertilizing with manure is fraught with infection of plants by vegetable flies. It is worth planting onions and carrots only two years after using manure in this area.
6. It is often not so easy to get organic fertilizers. Of course, if you have your own poultry house or barn with cows and pigs, then the problem is solved. Otherwise, you will have to contact a poultry farm or farm, spend money on fertilizer delivery, look for sapropel producers or purchase peat. Compost remains the most accessible type of organic matter.
7. And finally, yes - manure and bird droppings are not very aesthetically pleasing, and they do not smell very pleasant, and you will have to get dirty. But, admit it, any work on the ground is associated with the need to get your hands dirty!

At the sight of such a trailer with organic fertilizer, you immediately want to pinch your nose and step aside. And plants really like such additives, and how!

To summarize, today, most often mineral fertilizers are used in large farms aimed at obtaining the maximum profit from the sale of the crop. But in relatively small private gardens, organic fertilizers are usually used - they are more affordable and definitely will not cause harm to health.

The choice of the type of mineral fertilizers depends on the characteristics of the soil and the type of plants grown. But when choosing organic fertilizers, farmers are most often guided by their availability - I have a chicken coop, so they will bird droppings fertilize, no - I'll make a compost heap.

In general, if you are an adherent of organic farming, then the use of mineral fertilizers is excluded immediately. But if the result is important to you - as many vegetables as possible for the family or for sale - then you should not ignore the achievements of the chemical industry.

Anna Sedykh, rmnt.ru

To get high yields of tomatoes and cucumbers, it is necessary to carefully monitor the fertilization of the soil, which maintains and enhances its fertility. Usually the land is fertilized before planting seeds, during planting and after it. What is the best way to fertilize the soil in which tomatoes and cucumbers will grow?

Fertilizers for cucumbers

Cucumbers are in great need of fertile soil and a nutritious habitat in which it can develop as much as possible and give a high yield of high-quality large fruits. The best soil for growing cucumbers is light loamy neutral soil, which contains humus. One plant for the entire growth period needs fertilizers such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium - in order to achieve high yields, the soil with growing cucumbers must be provided with a large amount of minerals. When fertilizing cucumbers, care must be taken to ensure that soil mineralization is not excessively high, using partial nutrition for this. Since the cucumber is a vegetable crop with a long period of absorption of various nutrients, it is necessary to stop feeding it two to three weeks before harvesting. Also, the cucumber consumes a different amount of fertilizers during certain periods of its development - for example, during its fruiting period, a large amount of nitrogen and potassium is consumed for the formation of cucumbers. With a decrease in the access of plant roots to the nutrients used, the yield is significantly reduced.

Fertilizers for tomatoes

Tomatoes, no less than cucumbers, need fertile soil, into which fertilizing and basic fertilizers are applied. In the initial period of growth, they must be fertilized with potassium nitrate, reducing its amount as the plant develops. The high need of tomatoes for nutrient fertilizers is due to their developed root system, which quickly absorbs nutrients from the soil. When basic top dressing of tomatoes, it is necessary to apply a full complex to the soil, consisting of micro and macro fertilizers, the amount of which changes during the growing season. Potash fertilizers are ideal for tomatoes , because they enhance the plant's ability to form fruit organs and increase resistance to external irritants, pests and diseases. No less positive effect on tomatoes is phosphorus fertilizer, as well as manure, most often used on cultivated fertile soil. Unlike cucumbers, tomatoes develop better not on neutral, but on slightly acidic soil. If tomatoes are grown on soil where cucumbers grew before them, additional fertilizer should not be produced, because after cucumbers the soil is so saturated with top dressing that excess nutrition can only harm seedlings and young plants.

KakProsto.ru

What mineral fertilizers are the best?

Marisha

Kemira, a lot of options - summer, spring, station wagon, flower. For all occasions!

Anna Kalyuzhnaya

reroyal

In spring, complex (NPK) are needed, for example, equilibrium grades 16:16:16 or 17:17:17 (they can also be called azofoska or nitrophoska - according to the first letters of the substances included in the fertilizer). Or it is possible with a different ratio, where there is more nitrogen (then the first digit in combination is greater than the others). Even better sulfur-containing (NPKS), sulfur as a mesoelement is useful for many plants. Better chlorine free. They are more expensive, but they do not contain harmful chlorine (if the fertilizers are chlorine-free, this is written on the packaging. If they contain traces of chlorine, this is not mentioned at all). I buy chlorine-free Kemira products.

Gene Abos

Of the minerals, I like KEMIRA the most. It exists in many variants. Its advantage is the balance of all active substances and the presence of essential trace elements.
Why mineral? Oh, organic ones are good too. Try AGROVIT. It is "made" by bacteria like "BAIKAL" from chicken manure. Excellent fertilizer. I advise you to try.
I wish you success.

Andrey Enyutin

Kemira is an expensive infection. if for grass so she any will do. and in Moscow time. your point is not to fertilize everything rots from the rains: ((ideally horse manure and urine.

Tatyana Moiseeva (Ivanova)

You know what for. After all, each crop has its own fertilizer, In any case, having a dacha for 15 years, there is no better manure and compost, Maybe someone will argue

Igor Kulikov

In general, Kemira is the best option. When sowing or planting, it is better to choose fertilizers with high content phosphorus. Double superphosphate or ammophos. The main fertilization is usually planned before sowing.

Olga

There is a lot of ballast in fertilizers Look at the composition YOU need nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. they are given as a percentage by weight. And at different firms this structure and the price different Compare.
Nitrogen is needed for growth, it needs a lot in spring, for flowers and trees from July it is no longer nitrogen that is needed, but potassium and phosphorus

LYUDMILA FILATOVA

I have been using Kemira for many years, both for flowers and for everything else, it is sold even by seasons, now take Kemira (spring), any manure is also good.

I.N.

Kemira, Gloria

tell me what to do or how to fertilize potatoes so that there is a good harvest?

Nataly Sitko

manure in the fall under the plowing and in the spring on seedlings with potash fertilizers, you can use ash

Lenchik

what could be better than manure

Vika(

Traditionally, the land is fertilized with manure before winter plowing. You can use mineral fertilizers for potatoes more boldly - double superphosphate at 1 kg per hundred square meters and potassium sulfate at 2 kg per hundred square meters, applied to the ground in the fall, will nourish the earth with a sufficient amount of minerals for planting. Spring fertilizer for potatoes, also introduced during the digging process - urea and ammonium nitrate, 1 kg per hundred square meters of land (nitrogen fertilizers). In spring digging, you can use effective complex mineral fertilizers - nitrophoska (5 kg per hundred square meters) and nitroammophoska (3 kg per hundred square meters).
How to fertilize potatoes when planting most effectively

Most best fertilizers for potatoes when planting - the same nitrophoska in the amount of one tablespoon in each well, as well as bone meal, which not only helps to increase yields, but also improves the quality of the potato itself, its starch properties. The experience of practicing gardeners shows that nest fertilizers for potatoes are much more effective than the method of continuous fertilization of the earth when digging. Proper application of fertilizers directly into the holes before planting the tubers saves fertilizer costs and narrows the range of their action to the desired “klaptik” of the earth.

liza kazantseva

Evgeny Kondr

First, you need to pick up the soil (if possible) - loam, sandy loam is better. Secondly - soil moisture (the site must have sufficient moisture, but not waterlogging). Thirdly, acidity is closer to neutral alkaline. You need to be careful with fertilizers - overfeed with nitrogen (manure, ammonia, or the like), the potatoes will not lie - rot will form, become infected with scab, etc. The growth of tubers is well facilitated by additional roots that form in nightshade during hilling.

Athena

Neighbors in the country, when planting potatoes in the hole, put fish. fished in lakes and on the Ob. The harvest was good.

Check mark

This year we threw granulated chicken into the holes (we bought a bag of 360 rubles in the "gardener") Enough for all 3.5-4 acres, The harvest was better than everyone else, against the background not very have a nice summer for potatoes. i.e., they collected 100 vder in total. Good for our garden.

TYULEPASHA

I will add that the compliance with the planting dates and the quality of the seed (planting) material also affect the yield of potatoes.
Promising, disease-resistant varieties (such as the same bella-rose, Slavyanka, Rocco) will give a stable harvest.

Olga

The best fertilizer is manure And yet, do not plant it in one place

Landscape workshop Green Planet

Manure (well-rotted + sand + black soil) and naturally watered, and most importantly, protect it from spring frosts!

Alex

Duc, manure, my friend, he is also manure in Africa! Yes, plus green manure, but minus the wireworm (in the sense of liming).
In: http://lilygold.ru/view_post.php?id=189
learn!

Olga Melnikova

In each well-1 tsp. Azofoska + 1 tsp superphosphate + a handful of humus. Planting density-depending on the zone. Agricultural technology must be maintained.

Olga Ivanova

manure, horse litter, chicken manure = all in autumn, ash in spring

tomalove tamaralove

bedding in each hole, and not on the whole garden. even if there is no manure, then pick up any weeds in the spring and put about 2 handfuls in each hole on the potatoes. lovage is best (other plants are also suitable). the plant gives
moisture into the bush and fertilize it. Of course, then it is necessary to estimate the earth.

the simplest fertilizers for indoor flowers

Irina Ermakova

Home feeds.
There are so-called home remedies for plant nutrition, if you are not a professional florist or botanist, then it is better not to experiment, otherwise you will do much more harm to the plant than good.
For example, watering plants with water infused with eggshells causes chlorosis and other diseases in plants susceptible to calcium and magnesium salts (hydrangea, azalea). The popular belief that watering plants with tea or coffee stimulates plant growth is deeply mistaken. Just as little effective is vegetable oil, which, when applied to the leaves, only clogs the pores, thereby disrupting the breathing process.
However, referring to the experiences of reputable Michurinists (M. P. Arkadyeva, K. V. Solovyov, etc.), I can offer the following home methods of fertilization:
Sugar feeding. For a 10 cm pot 1 teaspoon granulated sugar. Sand is poured onto the surface of the earth before watering once a week. You can in solution - 2 teaspoons per glass of water, once a week. Cacti especially respond to feeding with sugar. Top dressing with castor oil. Pour a teaspoon of castor oil into a liter of water and shake well. Fertilize during flowering and fruiting.
Some craftsmen fertilize the flowers with milk, meat or fish water and have good results, but this is, as they say, "needless invention is cunning." It is easier to buy fertilizer than to pervert, and what to do with it is written there.
Article from the site Houseplants

Oksana Cherkas

The simplest are fertilizer sticks. Poked into the pot as much as needed, and you can forget about feeding for several months.

Tinia

Well, I don’t know how for flowers, but for cacti it definitely works. All you need is a tea bag. Preferably black tea. Open a used sachet (preferably recently used) and scatter around the flower, then water. Do such procedures for a flower once or twice a week.))))) Try everything and find out. Good luck!)))

Alex

I fertilize flowers with Kemira and Nitroammofoska. In spring and summer I spend foliar top dressing with complex fertilizer. I saw a program on TV that recommended adding tea and coffee leaves to the ground for transplanting. Tried. Wonderful. Six months ago, the project discussed the topic of banana land. I also tried. Some plants really liked it. You can get acquainted with my modest successes in my world. Of course, smearing the leaves with oil is complete madness. Like adding sugar to the ground. Plants are autotrophs, roots do not absorb sugar, but fruit flies and other insects will breed immediately. I know, I tried!

Larisa Sorokina

Now in stores there is a huge selection of a wide variety of dressings for flowers. Why do we need tea bags (there are a lot of dyes in bagged teas) and meat water (there are also a lot of flavor enhancers in meat).

Sonechka

Horse g ... oh - the right option! After it, the flowers really grow faster and look much better.

Alexander Myagkov

really KEMIRA LUX is a good boost

Svetlana

Tea brew and koyeynaya grounds ...
Just mix with the ground!
And some people water flowers with water in which they wash meat ...

✿Elena m✿

Do not fertilize with any home remedies, you will only gain mold and fungi. Now there are a lot of universal fertilizers, if you don’t want to buy separately for each. They are suitable for almost all plants with a few exceptions, such as orchids and some other plants. good fertilizer also biohumus.

sanabar djuzbaeva

"Biohumus" - organic fertilizer processed by earthworms of cow manure, bird droppings and other organic matter. I must say that biohumus can not be applied to all plants. Biohumus is most suitable for large plants that love acidic and slightly acidic soils. So biohumus can be fed with dieffenbachia, monstera, palm trees, etc. Biohumus is used by adding it to the soil for transplantation in a ratio of 1:3 (or 1:4). And also when replacing the top layer of the earth - the old removed soil is replaced with biohumus. You can also use an infusion of biohumus for watering plants. To do this, 1 part of biohumus is diluted in 5 parts of water and infused for 1-2 days.

Cactus - a special concentrated liquid gum fertilizer, contains auxins, cytokinins, vitamins B, C, humic acids, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. Promotes growth, rooting, flowering, increases resistance to diseases. Available in 0.5 liter bottles. Forest cacti - during the period of budding and flowering, 2 caps (8-10 ml) of fertilizer are diluted with 1 liter of water and watered every watering. Desert cacti - 1 cap (4-5 ml) per 2 liters of water - water once every two weeks from March to October. Do not use during rest period. Other succulents (haworthia, aloe, gasteria, etc.) - 1 cap (4-5 ml) per 1 liter of water - water 1 time in 2 weeks.

"Kemira Lux" is a water-soluble complex fertilizer. It is used for fertilizing horticultural crops and indoor plants. Contains in % ratio: Nitrogen 16, Potassium 22.5, Phosphorus 9, as well as trace elements: Fe 0.1, Mn 0.1, B 0.02, Zn 0.01, Cu 0.01, Mo 0.002. The fertilizer is easily soluble in water and is well absorbed by plants. Preparation of the solution: 1-2 g of fertilizer per 1 liter of water. It is used for root and foliar dressings. The dose of fertilizer depends on the type of plant and its physiological state. Producer JSC "Kemira Agro" - Finland.
You can use liquid fertilizer Rainbow or Ideal.

Maria Zabelina

I fertilize with agricola

Vredina

fertilizer for potatoes - the giant is the most!

Olga Konstantinova

The water from the aquarium is super!!! Grow by leaps and bounds.

Marina

Agricola, Barrel and good lighting.

Natural fertilizers for indoor plants

When top dressing, you need to try so that the fertilizer does not fall on the leaves. If this does happen, rinse them with water.
Sick plants or during the flowering period should not be fertilized.
Before top dressing, it is advisable to water the flower for two hours so that top dressing is distributed evenly.
Consider the time of year. Many plants are at rest in winter and autumn, and it is not worth fertilizing them at this time.
Flowering plants need to be fertilized with potassium and phosphorus.
An ornamental plant (not flowering) needs nitrogen.
Fertilizer will be more effective if there is good lighting and normal temperature.
Solutions for fertilizing indoor plants should be used immediately after preparation.

Spray against aphids and other pests.

In a blender, mix one peeled onion and two cloves of garlic.
Add one tablespoon of cayenne pepper and three cups of water. Let stand overnight. Strain and you can spray the affected plant. Some add more laundry soap so that the solution sticks to the leaves. The shelf life of the solution is 1 week.

We fertilize the plants with water from washing cereals.



Many housewives use water from washing cereals (rice, buckwheat, etc.) as fertilizer. Such water contains silicon, iron, magnesium, and phosphorus.

We feed the plants with bananas.



1. Banana skins are finely chopped and dried. When transplanting plants, they are poured in a layer or simply mixed with the soil.

2. You can use another way. Dried skins are ground in a coffee grinder. It turns out a dark brown powder, which can be poured into a pot with a plant before watering, or diluted with water and used as a liquid top dressing.
Such a banana top dressing is suitable for flowering plants, roses respond well, delight with abundant flowering. Flowering provokes potassium, which bananas are rich in.

Potato broth



Plants love starch. When you boil the potatoes, drain the solution and cool, and then you can water the houseplants with it.
Starch in plants performs a reserve function, it is a kind of "energy stash" of plants for an unfavorable period of time. Therefore, plants behave in the same way as people - everything is for children. Starch accumulates in tubers, seeds, bulbs, fruits (immature), that is, in the organs responsible for plant reproduction.

Cinnamon.



If you decide to cut the roots when transplanting a plant, then their tips can be sprinkled with cinnamon - it is an excellent disinfectant. You can also sprinkle cinnamon on cut branches.

Dentifrice.



1. It often happens that indoor plants stand with drooping leaves. The problem is with the root system. Root rots appear from watering cold water, from drafts. What can often happen in the cold season. Tooth powder will come to the rescue. For half a glass of water, you will need 2 tablespoons of tooth powder + 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate + 2 tablespoons of wood ash. The ash will nourish the root system. We mix everything thoroughly. Next, move the earth at the root and moisten the stalk with this solution. After that, stop watering for a week and move the plant to a dry place.

2. Indoor flowers do not like acidic soil. From time to time it would be good to feed them with toothpaste. 1 liter of water is a third of a tube of toothpaste. Mix well, water the plants with warm water of 22 degrees. This top dressing is the most nutritious for flowers. Calcium will enter the soil and nourish the roots.

Coffee.



Add used coffee grounds to potting soil. It contains a lot of nitrogen, and plants love it very much. It's best not to water the plant too much after adding the coffee so that the nitrogen is evenly distributed. In addition, coffee makes the soil looser. It is noted that if you plant tomatoes, be sure to add coffee to the soil, they adore it.

Fertilizers are a variety of mineral and organic substances that contain nutrients necessary for plants. By chemical composition they are divided into organic and mineral fertilizers, consisting of mineral salts. Mineral fertilizers can be simple, containing only one nutrient (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, boron, etc.), and complex, containing several nutrients. In turn, complex mineral fertilizers are divided into mixed, complex and combined fertilizers.

According to the timing of the application of fertilizers - both organic and mineral - are divided into pre-sowing, pre-sowing and post-sowing. Pre-sowing application is also called the main one, since it is intended for plant nutrition throughout the entire growing season. Pre-sowing fertilizers are applied to the soil in spring, before sowing or planting, or in autumn when preparing the soil for sowing (planting).

Sowing - involves the application of fertilizer simultaneously with sowing or planting (in rows, holes, planting pits), which provides plant nutrition for early stage their growth. Post-sowing fertilizer, or top dressing, is carried out during the growing season of plants.

In order not to spoil the porridge with butter

Most mineral fertilizers are highly water-soluble salts. Getting into the soil with a sufficient amount of moisture, they are quickly absorbed by plants, improving their nutrition. Therefore, mineral fertilizers can be considered as " ambulance» plants that lack one or another element in their diet. At the same time, fertilizers also have a certain effect on the properties of the soil: in some cases it is positive, in others it is negative.

For getting maximum effect From fertilizer it is necessary, first of all, to know the availability of soil available for plants nutrients to calculate the dose of fertilizer to compensate for the lack of a particular element. The main types of mineral fertilizers:

Fertilizer name	Solubility in water		Terms and methods of making		The effect of fertilizer on the soil
nitrogen fertilizers
sodium nitrate						alkalizing
calcium nitrate				spring and summer, pre-sowing and fertilizing		alkalizing
Ammonium nitrate		very strong		spring and summer, pre-sowing and fertilizing		acidifying
Urea (urea)				spring and summer, pre-sowing and fertilizing		acidifying
Phosphate fertilizers
Superphosphate simple						very weak acidifier
Double superphosphate				spring and summer, before and after sowing, top dressing		very weak acidifier
Phosphorite flour		sparingly soluble		autumn, presowing		reducing the acidity of acidic soils
potash fertilizers
Potassium chloride				autumn, presowing		acidifying
potassium sulfate		low		spring and autumn, pre-sowing and fertilizing		acidifying
Potassium-magnesium sulfate (potassium magnesia)		low		spring and autumn, pre-sowing		acidifying
Complex mineral fertilizers
Potassium nitrate (contains nitrogen and potassium)				pre-sowing and top dressing		alkalizing
Ammophos (nitrogen and phosphorus)				spring and summer, before and after sowing, top dressing		slightly acidifying
Diammophos (phosphorus and nitrogen)				spring and summer, before and after sowing, top dressing		slightly acidifying
Nitrophoska (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium)				spring and summer, before and after sowing, top dressing		neutral
Nitroammophoska (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium)				spring and summer, before and after sowing, top dressing		neutral
Superfoska (phosphorus, potassium)		low		spring and autumn, pre-sowing		neutral

The introduction of any fertilizer, and especially mineral, “by eye” and “just in case”, based on the fact that “you can’t spoil porridge with oil”, is fraught with many unpleasant consequences. So you can not only reduce the yield and spoil its quality, but also destroy the plants themselves or “salt” the soil. The best option is soil analysis in an agrochemical laboratory and subsequent calculation of the required fertilizer dose.

Or, at least, adherence to dosages and terms of application in accordance with the instructions on the fertilizer packaging and the agronomic recommendations of specialists. You can also refer to appearance plants. If it develops normally, retains the necessary shape and color, does not get sick, then it means that there is enough nutrition, and it is not necessary to overfeed it with fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones. In any case, it is worth adhering to the principle - it is better to give less than to give.