Here you can learn about which cucumber diseases cause the greatest damage to plants, and how to protect plants from infections. After reviewing the photos and descriptions of cucumber diseases, you will be able to promptly recognize the disease and take the necessary control measures.
Diseases of cucumbers in a greenhouse in the photo
Downy mildew (peronospora). A widespread fungal disease of cucumbers, which is main reason premature death of summer crops of cucumbers also affects cucumbers in greenhouses.
Round or angular shapes appear on affected leaves. yellow spots, on the underside of which a grayish-purple coating of conidial sporulation of the fungus develops.
As you can see in the photo, with this disease of cucumbers, the affected tissue becomes fragile and easily crumbles, the leaves wrinkle and fall off:
Downy mildew (peronospora) of cucumbers in the photo 
With this cucumber disease, the affected leaf tissue wrinkles and falls off (photo)
In closed ground conditions with high humidity, leaves affected by downy mildew rot.
During the summer, the fungus spreads by conidia, and then spores form in the affected tissues, in the form of which it overwinters. The development of the disease is promoted by fog, dew and moderate temperatures (+16...+22°C). The source of the disease is the remains of diseased plants.
To combat this disease of cucumbers, it is necessary to observe crop rotation, carefully remove and destroy plant debris. In greenhouses, it is necessary to maintain optimal temperature (above +24 °C) and humidity (within 80-90%).
To prevent peronosporosis (downy mildew) use "Profit Gold". When the first signs of the disease appear before fruiting, the cucumbers are sprayed with one of the copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture, Abiga Peak, Oksikhom, Khom, Ordan, etc.). Repeated treatments in case of resumption of the disease during the fruiting period are carried out with biological preparations “Fitosporin-M”, “Alirin-B”. Preparations for protection against downy mildew must be alternated. As you can see, fighting this disease is not so difficult; the main thing is to recognize the disease in time and prevent its spread.
Powdery mildew in the photo. Fungal disease of cucumbers
Powdery mildew. Also a fungal disease. Initially, the disease appears on the upper side of the leaves in the form of individual white powdery spots covered with a coating of the mycelium of the causative agent. The spots increase; merging, they cover the entire upper side of the leaf.
With this disease of cucumbers open ground and in greenhouses, a powdery coating appears on the underside of the leaves, as well as on the petioles. Severely affected leaves dry out. In greenhouses, the disease is also observed on fruits.
During the season, the powdery mildew pathogen is spread by spores with an incubation period of 3-4 days. In winter, the fungus persists on contaminated post-harvest residues.
The disease can reduce the yield in open ground by 30%, and in greenhouses by 60%.
When treating this disease of cucumbers, you can spray the plants with “Topaz”, and during the harvest period - with sulfur colloidal, “Tiovit Jet”, “Fitosporin-M” or “Alirin-B” when the first signs of powdery mildew appear, and then at intervals of 7- 10 days.
Cladosporiosis (olive brown spot). A fungal disease that develops on cucumbers everywhere in open and closed ground. Mostly the fruits of cucumbers are affected, but sometimes the leaves and stems are affected. The first signs of cladosporiosis on fruits are small watery spots that quickly increase in size, reaching a diameter of 5 mm; the skin of the fruit cracks, quickly hardening gelatinous drops appear on the surface of the spot. At high air humidity, the spots become covered with a black-green velvety coating.
Pay attention to the photo - with this disease of cucumbers in open ground and greenhouses, the diseased fruits become distorted:
Cladosporiosis of cucumbers in the photo 
With Cladosporiosis of cucumbers, diseased fruits become distorted (photo)
On leaves affected by olive brown spot, scattered small brown spots surrounded by a yellowish border appear at the beginning of fruiting. The coating on them is dull and weak. On older leaves, the affected tissue falls out. On the stems the disease manifests itself in the form of dry ulcers.
The causative agent of the disease develops under wide amplitudes of temperature (+5...+30°C) and relative air humidity (from 35 to 100%), but the strong development of the disease is facilitated by a decrease in temperature at night to +16...+18°C at relative air humidity above 85%.
Measures to combat olive brown spot include maintaining optimal temperature and humidity conditions. If necessary, spray plants with copper-containing preparations, as well as against peronospora.
These photos show diseases of cucumbers and methods of treating them:
Root rot. The disease mainly affects cucumbers in greenhouses; it is also found on plants in open ground. Root rot disease is usually preceded by weakening of plants under the influence of unfavorable external conditions.
On cucumbers in greenhouses, the disease manifests itself in the fact that the leaves, starting from the lower ones, gradually turn yellow. Gradually the plants wither. Browning of the bark is noticeable on the lower part of the stem and roots.
Look at the photo - with this disease, cucumbers in greenhouses lose their stems.
Root rot (photo). The disease mainly affects cucumbers in greenhouses 
When the disease “root rot” occurs in cucumbers in greenhouses, the stem is crushed
The disease usually occurs as a result of a decrease in soil temperature or an excessively high concentration of minerals, as well as during watering cold water. Lowering the air temperature in greenhouses to +17...+18°C promotes the development of the disease.
The disease is more severe when sunny weather follows a long period of cloudy weather. Localized rot is often observed in places where the greenhouse roof leaks.
Similar signs of the disease are observed in plants in open ground, often after watering or heavy rain. At first the leaves turn slightly yellow and wilt. The stem and roots have an outwardly healthy appearance, but there are no root hairs on the roots.
Here you can see a selection of photos of diseases and pests of cucumbers in greenhouses and open ground:
Fusarium wilt of cucumbers in the photo 
Wilting with fusarium in the photo
Fusarium wilt. On affected seedlings, the cotyledons wither or the lower part of the stem rots, resulting in mass death of seedlings. On adult plants, individual vines first wither, and then the entire plant dies, often turning green.
The causative agent of Fusarium wilt persists in the soil for a long time and can also be found in infected seeds. It penetrates the plant through young cells of root tissues, root hairs, and grows into the tissue of the root collar; through wounds formed on individual lashes during pinching and other work. Inside plants, the mycelium of the fungus spreads mainly through tissue cells and blood vessels.
In the fight against root rot and Fusarium wilt, strict adherence to crop rotation and careful collection and removal of plant debris are necessary. Adding organic and mineral fertilizers, feeding plants during the growing season, destroying the soil crust - after each watering, especially in the first period of growth.
Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and wood ash reduce the intensity of the development of fusarium wilt.
It is also necessary to disinfect the seeds by soaking them in a Fitosporin solution for 1-2 hours before sowing. When seedlings appear and during the growing season, water the plants with Glyokladin.
Heat and high humidity in a greenhouse are a dangerous combination for succulent stems and fruits, meaning pathogenic fungal spores.
Gray rot cucumbers in the photo 
Botrytis cucumbers in the photo
Gray rot (botrytis). Cucumbers are mainly affected by it in greenhouses. The disease develops on various plant organs. This fungal disease causes especially significant damage when it affects fruits.
It is possible to prevent large losses from gray rot by observing crop rotation and maintaining optimal temperature (not lower than +18 C) and air humidity (within 90%) in the greenhouse. It is necessary to remove rotten fruits and severely affected plants from it.
Angular spotting (bacteriosis). The further development of the disease will be restrained by the biological drug "Gamair".
To protect cucumbers from diseases and pests you should not:
- Overfeed plants with nitrogen to prevent stems and leaves from becoming soft and thin.
- Planting plants too densely will make it difficult for air to reach them. Damp, stagnant air and crowded conditions contribute to the development of diseases.
- Create a stuffy, stuffy atmosphere in greenhouses and greenhouses. In winter, avoid cold drafts. When ventilating, open windows on the leeward side.
- Injuring plants and fruits allows easy access for pathogens.
- If you leave cucumber fruits affected by diseases and pests on the plant, destroy them immediately.
Pests of cucumbers in open ground and greenhouses, measures to combat them
Aphids in the photo 
Aphids on cucumbers (photo)
Aphids are one of the most common and dangerous pests of cucumbers. It appears on young plants (at the stage of 3-4 leaves), so the harm from it is especially noticeable. Leaves infested with aphids wrinkle and curl, shoot growth stops, and the plant dies. With later development of aphids under the influence of the pest, curvature of shoots, drying of flowers and ovaries are observed. These pests of cucumbers in the open ground produce abundant sticky, sweet excrement that pollutes the plants, on which sooty fungi settle, which also aggravates the condition of the cucumbers.
The aphid is quite large, up to 2 mm, clearly visible to the naked eye, and black in mass. During the season it develops in 15-20 generations (almost constantly the birth of more and more new individuals of the pest occurs). Moderate and humid weather promotes rapid reproduction of aphids.
Adult aphids overwinter on leaves weeds, most often on the shepherd's purse. In spring they feed on weeds and later migrate to cucumbers. Female aphids are viviparous, their average fertility is 25-60 larvae.
To combat aphids, as soon as they appear on the plants and before the cucumbers begin to bear fruit, spray with one of the preparations (“Iskra-M”, “Iskra Zolotaya”, “Iskra Double Effect”, “Confidor” or “Commander”). When repeated spraying, the preparations must be alternated so that the pest does not get used to them.
During the fruiting period, only biological preparations with a waiting period of 1-2 days can be used against aphids (Iskra Bio, Akarin, Fitoverm, Agravertin).
Spider mite in the photo 
Spider mite on a cucumber (photo)
Spider mites also cause severe damage to cucumber plants. Mites appear especially often if the air in the greenhouse is dry; this pest of cucumbers leaves light yellow spots in the form of pricks on the underside of the leaves, visible to the naked eye. If such spots are detected, the plants are sprayed with garden sulfur or colloidal sulfur, you can use “Tiovit Jet”. Spraying is repeated after 7-8 days. When using sulfur-containing preparations, do not water the plants by sprinkling, so as not to wash them off the leaves. Sulfur preparations will also help cucumbers in open ground, where spider mites inhabit plants in large numbers in July and August, when the heat is more than +30 °C and low relative air humidity is 35-45%.
Among the biological preparations against spider mites, “Bitoxibacillin” and biological preparations recommended against aphids have a good effect.
Radish planted between cucumbers and tomatoes repels leaf beetles and spider mites.
Miners in the photo 
Miners on cucumber leaves (photo)
Miners are pests that attack cucumbers in open ground during the fruiting period. If the pest population is large, use biological preparations similar to those used against aphids.
Every year, most gardeners encounter cucumber pests. The future harvest and plant health depend on a quick response to the appearance of harmful insects. There are several methods for preventing and exterminating pests that you need to know about to preserve cucumbers.
Pests of cucumbers with photos and descriptions
The main pests of cucumbers include: melon aphids, ants, root-knot nematodes, whiteflies, spider mites, mole crickets, cucumber gnats, tobacco thrips, slugs, wireworms and rodents.
This is a homoptera, sucking pest, about 2 millimeters in size. It can have different colors, both yellow and dark green. The larvae overwinter in fallen leaves, weeds, and anthills. The most common carriers of aphids are ants. Cucumber bushes are affected in July - August. Aphids suck the juices of plants and, releasing poison, infect shoots and leaves.
Signs of appearance: withering and shedding of flowers and ovaries; drying out, wrinkling of leaves; slow fruit growth. Aphids are carriers of various diseases, which makes them especially dangerous.
Fighting with folk methods
An effective folk method is to spray the bushes with tincture of hot red pepper.
This requires 20 liters of water, 60 grams of crushed pepper, 400 grams of tobacco dust. The mixture should steep for 1 day, then strain. Add a tablespoon of any liquid soap and 300 grams of ash to it. 2-3 liters of infusion are required per square meter.
Garlic infusion is prepared as follows:
Take 2 liters of water and 400 grams of chopped garlic. The mixture needs to infuse for 4 days. After this, everything is diluted with water at the rate of 60 grams per 2 buckets of water. The amount of infusion can be increased or decreased depending on the planting area. 30 grams of infusion are required per square meter.
You can also use this infusion:
The solution is prepared from 400 grams of ash, 100 grams of soap and 20 liters of water. The mixture must be infused and strained. Plants are treated using a spray bottle.
For celandine decoction
Take 2 liters of water and 800 grams of plucked leaves of the plant. Everything is mixed and infused for a day. Then the infusion needs to be boiled for half an hour. The entire above-ground part of the plants is sprayed with the decoction.
Chemistry
Faster and in an efficient way the fight against aphids is the use of chemicals such as: Fitoverm, Aktofit, Komandor, Iskra and Karbofos.
Prevention
- It is not recommended to plant cucumbers near viburnum, linden, petunias, and legumes, as their aroma attracts pests.
- The proximity of cucumber beds with onions, mint, garlic, fennel, lavender, and mustard helps to repel the pest.
- The destruction of weeds and organic residues on the site avoids pest damage and is the best prevention.
But eating, spoiling seedlings and fruits, and carrying aphids leads to the need to remove these insects from the site.
To get rid of ants you need to mix boric acid and sugar and spread around the area.
Chemistry
To destroy ants, chemicals are used: Anteater, Thunder 2, Ant, Muracid.
Prevention
When aphids are destroyed, the ants themselves leave the area.
The proximity of cucumbers to garlic, elderberry, mint, and mustard repel insects.
By destroying the nest, you can naturally get rid of insects. The anthill can be dug up or filled with boiling water with the addition of vinegar, shampoo and vegetable oil (2 cups of vinegar per bucket of water).
These are small roundworms, white or pearly in color, 2 millimeters long. The root nematode damages the plant at an air temperature of 24-30 degrees Celsius and 60-65% air humidity. The pest lives in the ground and through it damages plants.
When affected, leaves and shoots curl, thin and weak roots covered with swellings are formed, and the growth of bushes is slowed down.
To check for the presence of nematodes, you need to sow cucumber seeds in the ground. 2.5-3 weeks after emergence, the seedlings are dug up to check the roots. If a pest is present, it is easy to notice them on the surface of damaged roots.
The pest impairs metabolism in the bushes. They lose nutrients, which leads to a decrease in their productivity.
Fighting with folk methods
Thermal treatment of the root system allows you to completely destroy pests. Adults and larvae die at a water temperature of +40 degrees. To do this, the bushes need to be dug up and dipped for 12-15 minutes in heated water to 50-55 degrees.
Chemistry
To remove the nematode, the following drugs are used: Mercaptophos, Ruskamin, Phosfamide. Plants are processed 4 times.
Prevention
As a preventative measure, acquired seedlings should be treated with Parathion. Cucumber roots are dipped into the diluted liquid for 12-15 minutes. Before planting, the soil should be shed with hot water, treated with ultraviolet light or baked in the oven for 2 hours.
Removing weeds and fertilizing the soil with cow manure can naturally protect cucumbers from root-knot nematodes.
This is a white butterfly, 3 millimeters long. Both insects and their larvae are dangerous for plants. The butterfly appears in humid, warm summer. The whitefly overwinters in greenhouses and greenhouses, where there is practically no ventilation and high air humidity is always maintained. Insects and larvae suck sap from plants, slowing their growth. The feces of these insects eat away at the leaves, which subsequently turn black and dry out completely.
Whiteflies are easy to spot. Upon examination, you can see a small midge, similar to a small moth. When plants are affected, growth slows down, the leaves turn yellow, curl, the underside of the leaves are covered with small scales, and the surface is covered with a shiny sticky coating.
Fighting with folk methods
To drive out whiteflies, take 500 grams of chopped onion or garlic and a liter of boiling water. Leave for 12 hours. Then it is filtered. The plants are sprayed with this infusion for a week.
Garlic infusion is prepared as follows: take 120 grams of chopped garlic for 2 buckets of water. The solution needs to sit for a day. Treatment is carried out once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.
You can use soap solution: 1 part laundry soap need to be crushed and dissolved in 6 parts of water. The solution is whipped and applied with a brush or sponge to the leaves. This method is suitable for use in greenhouses, greenhouses or small areas in the garden.
To prepare an infusion of tobacco, you need to take 50 grams of crushed tobacco per 1 liter of boiling water.
Infuse in a dark place for 5 days. Afterwards, the infusion is filtered and used every 3 days.
Chemistry
To quickly and effectively eliminate insects, the following insecticides are used: Confidor, Aktara, Fitoverm, Akarin, Mospilan, Iskra and Aktellik.
Prevention
Prevention in this case is standard.
This is an arachnid pest, up to 1 millimeter in size, that feeds on plant juices. It gets onto cucumbers from the soil or is transferred on clothes, tools, by the wind, or with water. The pest loves low humidity and dry air. False spider mites prefer high humidity. With severe damage, mites lead to plant disease and death.
You can recognize the pest on a plant by small white dots and a transparent thin web on the stems, leaves and fruits.
Fighting with folk methods
To prepare garlic infusion, you need to chop 4 heads of garlic, add 2 liters of water and leave for 5 days. Afterwards everything is diluted with water 1:1. Spraying is done in the evening.
Another infusion: 200 grams of husk is poured into a bucket of water and infused for 5 days, then filtered and used for spraying.
Chemistry
For large areas of damage, chemicals are used, such as: Actellik, Neoron, Fitoverm, Karbofos, Apollo.
Prevention
Regular feeding and spraying with protective preparations will help prevent ticks from appearing on the site.
This is a large burrowing dark brown insect, up to 8 centimeters long. This pest lives in warm regions. The mole cricket is capable of destroying a significant number of plantings in a short time. The pest enters the area with cucumbers through the ground.
If the seeds do not germinate well, the seedlings fall, dry out, and tunnels are visible in the ground, then these are clear signs of the appearance of a mole cricket.
Fighting with folk methods
If seedlings are planted in cups with a cut bottom, the mole cricket cannot harm the cucumbers.
For a trap with water, take 0.5 liter jar and some liquid. It needs to be buried in the ground up to the neck. Mole crickets love dampness and drown in water.
Chemistry
The most effective drugs for the fight: Nemabactin, Boverin, Medvetox, Grom, Bazudin, Aktara, Prestige.
Prevention
When a mole cricket appears, adding compost, humus and manure to the soil should be completely abandoned.
The smell of cilantro and garlic repel the pest. Mulching the soil makes it difficult for the mole cricket to move through the ground and leads to its death.
This insect is the main enemy of tobacco. However, it also harms cucumbers. The length of the insect is 1 millimeter. The color is grayish-yellow. Female thrips infect cucumber bushes by laying eggs in the leaves. Insects and larvae suck sap from flowers and plants. When severely damaged, cucumbers dry out.
You can determine the presence of insects by yellowish-brown spots on the foliage. The leaves curl and dry. Plant growth slows down.
Fighting with folk methods
The use of mites (Neoseyulus) and orius bugs eliminates the larvae and further spread of thrips.
An infusion of onion peels is prepared as follows: you need to take a two-liter volume of onion peels and 4 liters of water. Infuses for 2 days. Then soap and 12 liters of water are added. All plants are treated with infusion.
Chemistry
Chemicals for the fight: Ankara, Iskra, Fufanon, Commander Maxi.
Prevention
Frequent watering, cleaning up plant debris, and destroying weeds help prevent the appearance of pests.
Gastropods appear on plantings after heavy rains. They are difficult to remove mechanically. They feed and move around the site only at night. Slugs eat young ones green plants, which leads to their illness and weakening.
Fighting with folk methods
The row spacing should be sprinkled with cilantro, rosemary, parsley or allspice.
You can use a beer can as traps. The container must be buried up to the neck. Pests will be attracted by the smell and will crawl into the jar and drown.
Chemistry
To eliminate slugs from a larger area, the use of chemicals is required: Slug Eater, Meta, Thunderstorm, Ferramol, Ethisso. Instead of these drugs, you can use calcium-containing fertilizers that repel slugs.
Prevention
Mulching the ground with sawdust is the best prevention against these pests.
The pest prefers potatoes and carrots, but sometimes also feasts on cucumber roots. Chemicals are useless in this case.
Females lay eggs in the upper layer of soil in May - July. Loosening the soil allows you to remove the pest. Deep autumn digging of soil promotes freezing of larvae and insects. Application of nitrogen fertilizers, ash and spilling of potassium permanganate on the soil allows you to avoid pest damage. Neighborhood with legumes repel the pest.
Rats and mice eat ripe fruits and plant roots and carry a variety of diseases.
Fighting with folk methods
Folk remedies for eliminating rodents are mousetraps, cats and hedgehogs.
Medicinal black root and dried elderberry repel pests.
Chemistry
If roots and fruits are damaged, the following should be used to control rodents: Rat Death, Mortorat, Rat Seed, Goliath.
Prevention
Careful cleaning of plants from the site in the fall allows you to minimize the appearance of mice and rats.
Pests of cucumbers in a greenhouse - treatment features
The dark gray cucumber mosquito lives in greenhouses. The length of the insect is 5 millimeters. The pest is introduced into the greenhouse with the soil, in the form of a pupa. The larvae make holes in the roots and cotyledons of young plants. Mosquitoes are carriers of diseases and put plants at great risk. Plant growth slows down, they wither, the root part rots, turgor is lost and the bushes die.
To combat the pest, you can use yellow Velcro. This color attracts insects. If pests adhere, the tape can be simply removed.
To prevent their appearance, the soil should be spilled with boiling water with the addition of potassium permanganate before planting.
When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, you can get rid of whiteflies simply by lowering the air temperature to 10 degrees and humidity to 80%.
To combat aphids, you can use ladybugs; they feed on these pests.
After destroying the aphids, the ants immediately leave the greenhouse.
To eliminate slugs, you can sharply lower the temperature to 10 degrees, which does not harm cucumbers, but is detrimental to pests.
Natural enemies of the mite are phytoseiulus and amblyseius, which are not harmful to plants or humans. This method is ideal for growing cucumbers in greenhouses.
Soil disinfection allows you to get rid of pests. Thermal treatment of the soil, yellow adhesive tapes and spraying of the root collar and lower part of the stem with chemicals save the plants.
Use chemicals in a confined space in smaller quantities and use a respirator!
If other insects are used in the greenhouse for pest control, chemicals should be eliminated.
When carrying out preventive work, you can protect the area from the appearance of any pests. Autumn cleaning of the site, burning tops and removing weeds is the main rule that allows you to reduce the risk of pests in the garden.
Diseases and pests of cucumbers and methods of combating them: video
List of pests of cucumbers. Methods and methods for controlling cucumber pests
Along with diseases of cucumbers, the enemies of the cucumber harvest are pests.
Here we come to representatives of the animal kingdom, who, due to their love for cucumbers, can also greatly reduce your harvest. And it's not just mice.
Before moving on to this topic, it should be noted that along with widespread pests that are found “from Moscow to the very outskirts” where cucumber is grown, there are also local “evil pests” that are characteristic of a particular area. In addition, in the open ground there are threats from enemies who do not really like (or cannot) climb into greenhouses, and vice versa. Polyphagous pests are especially dangerous - they don’t care what you eat (taste preferences cover a large range of garden crops, including weeds), so if you managed to protect some beds from them, they will “take it out” on others.
Slugs
This pest needs no further introduction. Although “slugs, or slugs” is a common name for a number of representatives of the gastropod class, a type of mollusk. And other representatives of this class - snails that travel everywhere with their “houses” - are unlikely to cause affection among amateur gardeners. These slow and, at first glance, absolutely defenseless creatures, under the cover of darkness, can leave you without a harvest or with such fruits that you can’t go anywhere else except to a landfill. Moreover, a very small number of “enemies” is quite enough. At night or on a cloudy day, crawling along the stems, they gnaw through young succulent leaves (this especially causes damage to young seedlings), and when the sun appears, they hide under lumps of earth, weed leaves, or any objects where it is dark and damp, and wait for the next night. After them, a silvery mucous trace remains on the leaves, which also does not contribute to the normal development of the plant.
During the winter, slugs lay eggs in the soil, which in the spring produce young individuals that begin damaging seedlings and other plants literally after 2-3 months.
The best way to fight slugs is mechanically - collect everyone you find. You can, for example, walk at night with a flashlight. But to make this task a little easier for yourself, it’s better to use a trick - create temporary shelters for the slugs yourself to escape from the daytime sun. These could be pieces of roofing felt, slate, etc. placed between them. Or specially placed small containers with water where slugs could climb but not get out. Some gardeners suggest using beer instead of water. The method is truly more effective. But in order for slugs to hide in “hospitably” prepared shelters, you need to keep the area clean, that is, there should be no weeds, debris, foreign objects, creating a dark and damp space. Creating barriers on the approaches to the garden bed (dry clean sand, eggshells) will also help. Cleanliness and order should also be maintained in winter - remove all plant debris, old covering material and other debris. It is better to dig up the soil in winter, as this will ruin the “wintering” for many pests, not just slugs, by bringing them closer to the surface and frost.
In serious cases, you will have to resort to chemical protection - there are various pesticides (more precisely, molluscicides), for example, the safest is the granular preparation "Groza", in blue granules, in addition to the active substance (metaldehyde), which has an osmotic effect (increases mucus secretion, due to which causes dehydration of the body and death of the mollusk), there are substances that attract slugs and substances that repel birds. The drug has no effect on other types of living organisms, for example, earthworms, insects, birds, mammals. The substance is scattered both over the surface of the beds and between the rows (15-30 g per 1 square meter). The period of active action is 2 weeks. And don’t forget to remove dead “enemies”...
Root-knot nematodes
This disaster, like most others, is better to prevent in a timely manner than to fight it.
In terms of prevention, you should follow crop rotation. You can improve the soil by planting garlic or cruciferous vegetables, for example, cabbage - the nematode does not eat them (but the weeds must be pulled out in a timely manner in order to completely leave the pest without food). It helps to abundantly water the soil with boiling water and then cover the spilled area with film for 2-3 hours. In greenhouses, it is recommended to periodically replace the top layer of soil with a new one or freeze it in winter. Be sure to treat garden tools - wash them thoroughly, use disinfectant solutions (2% formaldehyde).
You can use biological products, for example, Fitoverm, which is a waste product of some beneficial soil microorganisms. It is effective in combating many diseases and pests, but is non-toxic and does not accumulate in the soil. Vegetables can be eaten after 2 days. As part of the fight against nematodes, soil treatment should be carried out 1-3 days before planting seedlings.
Wireworms
One of the polyphagous pests that prefers potatoes and carrots. But if you intensively fight him in these beds, then he will not refuse the cucumber roots. The worm-like pest is actually a two-year-old click beetle larva. Developing in the soil and having an enviable appetite, it eats away any roots, destroys swollen seeds, gnaws holes in root crops and tubers, which causes them to rot.
Fighting this pest is difficult, but necessary. And it is better to use environmentally friendly methods, that is, taking into account the weaknesses of the “enemy”. So, for example, taking into account that females lay eggs from the end of May to the beginning of July (depending on weather conditions) in the top layer of soil under various lumps, heaps of garbage or plant debris, you can deprive her of this opportunity - loosen the beds and remove the garbage . Larvae and beetles overwinter in the soil - dig deeper in the fall so that the pests freeze in winter. You can also repeat the digging in the spring. And don’t neglect picking out the larvae you come across by hand. It’s difficult to crush them - they are very hard, it’s much easier to tear them apart, and don’t be afraid - they don’t know how to regenerate like worms, so you won’t get two pests instead of one. The wireworm prefers acidic soils - add ash, chalk, eggshells, anything that increases the pH level, that is, alkalizes. High levels of nitrogen are toxic for this pest - apply nitrogen fertilizers, or better yet, improve the soil health with legumes. Legumes are good to sow as a cordon from turfed areas - the wireworm prefers to winter in the turf. A strong solution of potassium permanganate also kills wireworms (water the holes a day before planting the seedlings). You can also use this trick (in small areas): bury halves of potato tubers in the ground (to a depth of 15-20 cm), cut side down, with a stick stuck in them. After 2-3 days, the bait is removed and the larvae are destroyed. You can bury half a potato again, just make a new cut.
Medvedki
These rather large and, at first glance, clumsy insects can cause serious damage to the crop. They pose a particular threat to greenhouse plants. The mole cricket loves well-manured, moist soil generously flavored with humus and warmth - these are the conditions we usually create in greenhouses. Its diet consists mainly of root vegetables, earthworms and other insects, but during its movements underground (just at the level of development of the root system of most garden crops), it does not stand on ceremony - it gnaws all the roots it comes across on the way. The extent of destruction directly depends on the number of “diggers”.
In the fight against mole crickets, it is also better to use mechanical methods, trying to avoid chemicals. The main goal is to prevent reproduction and reduce the number of adults. Deep digging of the soil in autumn and early spring, loosening to a depth of approximately 15-20 cm during the summer (where this will not damage the roots) leads to the destruction of passages, nests, and egg clutches.
Some gardeners recommend pouring a little vegetable oil and 2-3 liters of water into the tunnels, or soapy water - these solutions kill mole crickets. You can use traps - bury small plastic containers with water in the ground, 2/3 filled (the top edge is level with the ground).
Mole crickets react to cow manure “like flies to honey,” so if you find their passages on the site, do not fertilize with this organic fertilizer (they will also run away from neighbors), use a better diluted one bird droppings— he, on the contrary, scares away the mole crickets.
Mole crickets really do not like marigolds (tagetes), as well as some other pests.
From chemicals You can use "Phenaxin" or "Thunder", but it is better to do this only in extreme cases and strictly following the instructions for use, since the drugs are toxic. Poisoned mole crickets must be collected and buried so that the birds are not harmed.
But if you suffer a catastrophic defeat in this struggle, do not despair. As you know, every coin has two sides.
❧ Dried mole crickets are used in some folk methods of treatment. And if they like your dacha plot so much, try organizing a “bear farm”; in any case, there is a steady demand for dried mole crickets.
These were all underground pests. But cucumbers face no less misfortunes from the air. Most often these are sucking arthropods - mites, whiteflies, aphids, thrips. Anchoring on various parts plants (leaves, shoots, less often flowers), they begin to suck out the juices. They mainly absorb protein substances, and carbohydrates are released in the form of sweet excreta (sticky droplets on leaves and surrounding objects). Sooty fungi thrive on these secretions, causing even more harm to the plant. Insects are especially dangerous in greenhouses, since there are no natural enemies there.
Greenhouse whitefly
Small (about 1 mm) light yellow insects with white wings and grayish legs. They mainly attack greenhouse crops, since, being natives of the tropics, they develop better in warmth and humidity. Easily transported by air currents. The insect is polyphagous, in addition to cucumbers and tomatoes, it can feed on a huge number of species, including weeds such as sow thistle, dandelion, woodlice, which save it from hunger in the fall. Females lay eggs on the underside of leaves. The larvae emerging from the eggs are completely microscopic (0.3 mm), having attached themselves to the leaf, they become like light green flat scales and begin to feed. One plant usually has pests in different stages of development, which complicates the fight against them. In addition, the greenhouse whitefly is a carrier of many viruses, in particular the causative agent of cucumber mosaic, which further worsens the situation of unfortunate cucumbers.
In terms of combating this pest, preventing the entry of whiteflies into greenhouses (hanging windows and doors with gauze) and timely destruction of weeds are of great importance. Glue traps will help - small pieces of plywood are painted yellow and smeared with something sticky, such as castor oil. Captured pests are periodically removed and the traps are lubricated again.
A tobacco bush will distract the whitefly, but it can already be treated with some chemical preparation, for example, actellik.
Spider mites
The most dangerous is the common spider mite, which multiplies massively in dry and hot weather. It settles mainly on the lower surface of the leaves, entangling everything with a thin web. It feeds on cell juices. The leaves gradually become marbled in color, then turn brown and dry out. To prevent the proliferation of ticks, you should maintain high air humidity, regularly spray plants, especially in dry weather, and destroy weeds in a timely manner. In serious cases, you can use drugs such as Fitoverm or Actellik.
Aphid
Cucumbers can be threatened by several species of aphids, most often the melon and large potato aphids. Not only do these insects reproduce very quickly and, accordingly, feed massively at the expense of the plant, they also carry a huge number of phytopathogenic viruses. These pests are located not only on young leaves, but also on old ones, and even on flowers. They secrete sticky excrement (honeydew) very intensively, promoting the development of soot fungi. (Aphids attack cucumbers only from weeds, so it is very important to prevent their growth in greenhouses. In order not to resort to chemicals, you can use solutions such as garlic infusion (200 g of crushed cloves are infused in 1 liter of water for 7 days in a dark place, then filter and dilute with water - 25 ml of infusion per 1 liter of water) or a solution of ash and soap (1 glass of ash and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap per 10 liters of water, leave for 24 hours, filter and spray).
In nature, the natural enemy of aphids is the ladybug, however, as they say, rely on it, but don’t make a mistake yourself!
Thrips
Another very small sucking insect. Adults reach a maximum size of 2 mm (in some species). The color is usually uniform, light yellow, yellow-brown or black. Thrips are quite widespread, but due to their small size they do not attract attention. But traces of their vital activity are very noticeable - silvery streaks appear on the leaves (caused by air entering the tissues), areas of discoloration, necrosis, deformations, sticky marks. As a result of damage to the ovaries, crooked fruits are formed. Like other insect pests, thrips are carriers of many viruses.
Thrips are more difficult to control than other pests. On one plant there are insects in different stages of development. To detect them as early as possible, you can hang sticky traps, but blue ones are better than yellow ones. Weeds should also be controlled.
For spraying, you can try garlic infusion. But, most likely, you will have to use chemical insecticides, for example, actara (4 g of the drug per 5 liters of water).
Cucumber mosquito
This is a small (3-5 mm) inconspicuous insect of a grayish color, poorly visible against the background of the soil. Females lay eggs in the soil near the plants so that the hatched larvae (translucent, 5 mm long, with a black head) can easily reach the roots or stem - their food. Weakened plants are more severely affected.
It is very important to prevent these pests from occurring. To do this, you should promptly remove plant residues, loosen and dig up the soil, disinfect manured soil and use only mature compost.
A few days before planting cucumbers, you can treat the soil with Actellik (1-2 liters per 10 sq. m).
❧ It is necessary to promote the full growth and development of cucumbers in every possible way (water, feed, observe temperature regime) - strong and healthy plants are affected much less frequently.
Rodents
Behind all this frightening variety of pests, the mouse was almost lost, which was the only one the cucumber from the cartoon was afraid of. Well, of course, not only mice (field mice and house mice) damage cucumber plantings, but also some other mouse-like rodents: the common vole, the gray rat.
These pests are, of course, counteracted by cleanliness on the site. A variety of garbage and waste is both bait for rodents and shelter. The smell of peppermint repels them. You can catch rodents with traps and mousetraps, using bread and pieces of lard (for mice), or meat (for rats) as bait. But no one has yet invented a better remedy than an ordinary cat. However, keep in mind that not every domestic predator will hunt rodents. And don’t forget to take the “faithful guard” to a warm city apartment at the end of the summer season.
What pests of cucumbers are there and how to get rid of them in simple and accessible ways. It seems that pest control can be endless. Russia is a country where, during the period of planting and growing cucumbers, the climate is hot and arid. It is loved by various pests that actively reproduce and are active at high temperatures.
Owners of summer cottages spend a lot of time and effort caring for cucumbers. This process is not easy, but it cannot be avoided if the desire to get a healthy harvest is at stake.
This article will discuss control methods and preventive measures that are carried out in greenhouses and in open ground conditions when growing cucumbers.
Melon aphids on cucumbers - how to fight aphids on cucumbers
- Description of the cucumber pest
Aphids are considered the most formidable pest, since they eat first the flowers, and then the entire plant as a whole, including shoots. Since the life of aphids occurs on the plant, the cucumbers die.
This insect becomes active in mid-summer. Its reproduction occurs at a rapid pace. After a few days, the reverse side of the leaf facing the ground becomes infected. Flowers and ovaries are also infected.
- How to liquidate
It is important to ensure that there is no grass on the site. After harvesting, it is necessary to remove all plant remains completely, leaving nothing behind, and then burn them. This is due to the fact that aphids can migrate from the grass to cucumbers.
In the case when the insect was noticed, prepare the mixture:
- Fill the bucket with 10 liters of water (the water should have a temperature of about 60 degrees).
- Take capsicum - 30 g. It must be finely chopped. If this pepper is not available, replace it with dry ground red pepper in the amount of 10 g.
- Take tobacco dust in the amount of 200 g.
- The components are mixed in a bucket of water.
- The solution is infused for 1 day.
- Then it is mixed.
- Strain.
- You need to add 4 teaspoons of burnt wood ash and liquid soap to the mixture.
When treating a plant with this solution, take 2 liters for each square meter of treated area.
Based on these calculations, it turns out that this bucket is only enough for a 5 sq. m plot. If the area planted with cucumbers is larger, then more solution must be taken. Repeat this procedure in 7 days.
No less effective will be the use of such a solution:
- Take a 10 liter bucket of hot water.
- Add 1 cup of burnt wood ash.
- You should also add 4 teaspoons of liquid soap
- Leave for 24 hours.
- Spray as in the first option.
Advice! The weather during this procedure should be calm, without wind. The best time for this is evening.
To destroy aphids, use no less than effective remedy– karbofos solution. In a 10-liter bucket with warm water, dilute 1 or 2 tbsp. this drug.
If the solution has a high concentration, it is used to treat paths and films in greenhouses. When the concentration is weak, use cucumbers directly. The processing process is best carried out in the 2nd half of the day, when the sun is not so intense.
Photo: Melon aphid on cucumbers. An oblong green round insect. Aphids suck juices from leaves, and when there is a large population of plants and terminal stemsWhen procedures related to spraying are carried out, after they are completed, there should be no open windows, transoms, or doors. You can fight aphids with the help of insecticidal infusions.
For this you can use: henbane, garlic, dope, onion, etc. All the following solutions are made with 10 liters of water:
- Henbane (leaves and roots) is needed in the amount of 1,000 g dry, or 500 g fresh. Leave for 15 hours.
- Dry mustard in the amount of 1,000 g is infused for 24 hours.
- Fresh dandelion leaves - 250 g (or 330 g of finely chopped roots of this plant) infuse for 2 hours.
- Add 0.5 tbsp. pepper, mustard.
- Potato tops – 1,000 g, red pepper (ground) – 10 g. These components are infused for 4 hours and used immediately.
- Onions (1 cup) are finely chopped or passed through a meat grinder. Add 2 tsp. alkalis. Leave for 3 hours. Strain.
Important: before you start using these infusions, add 2 or 4 tsp. liquid soap.
Spider mites on cucumbers in greenhouses and open ground
- By what signs are insects recognized?
If cucumbers are infected spider mite, the following signs may indicate this:
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- the appearance of dots of light shades (if the lesion is serious, these will already be spots) on back side leaf;
— a thin web appeared on the plant;
- growth has become slower;
— the leaves began to turn yellow.
- Methods and actions to destroy the pest
What should the owner of a garden or plot of land do to eliminate spider mites?
Activities that bring good results:
It is necessary to dig up the soil before planting seeds. This is important, since most harmful insects wait out the winter in the upper layers of the soil.
Spider mites first show their activity when they are on weeds. To prevent it from moving onto cucumbers, they must be removed regularly.
It is advisable to inspect plants as often as possible. If affected leaves are found, they are removed and burned.
It is necessary to change landing sites. You can, for example, next year, instead of cucumbers, plant cabbage or tomatoes. As soon as the spider mite has been detected, the infestation sites are treated with biological preparations.
- How to destroy spider mites in a greenhouse
Those plants that grow in greenhouses are at greater risk than others of becoming infected with spider mites. It is in the greenhouse that the most beneficial conditions for the life of this harmful insect are found: a temperature of 30 degrees, not a very high humidity level.
Photo: Spider mite. Ticks are prolific - several generations per season. The female lays one and a half hundred eggs. Methods for killing spider mites on cucumbers greenhouse conditions:
- If you create a humidity level of more than 60%, the pest will obviously not like it. If you make sure that the humidity level in the greenhouse is about 85%, this is a good preventative method to prevent insect activity. If cobwebs appear on cucumbers, what should you do?
- When cucumbers are grown in a greenhouse, it makes sense to include the following among the main actions aimed at combating spider mites:
- Carrying out fumigation of the entire greenhouse in the autumn, as soon as the entire harvest has been harvested, as well as in the spring before sowing. It is necessary to ensure complete tightness.
- Once the crop is harvested, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil.
- Using a gas burner, you need to burn down the trellis.
- Fertilize the soil with mixtures containing phosphorus.
Insectoacaricides, as well as acaricides, are the drugs used to destroy spider mites. Today there are no systems protecting against these agents so that they do not have a negative impact on humans. This is why it is dangerously unsafe to use such remedies.
Gardeners noticed that products with intestinal-contact action showed excellent results after use. Cucumbers are treated with them several times. It all depends on the temperature. The higher its indicator, the more often the plants need to be treated.
The most effective drugs aimed at destroying spider mites are:
- Spark – Bio.
- Phytofarm.
- Karbofos.
- Bitoxibacillin.
Note to summer residents: it is advisable to carry out work related to the treatment of cucumbers in the evening so that the sun does not get too hot. Then the chemicals will not have time to evaporate, and the harmful insect will be eliminated.
If you don't want to bother with chemicals, there is a harmless way to save cucumbers. Using the phytosailus mite you can get rid of spider mites. You need to take a predator and place it nearby near infected areas. The phytosailus mite will destroy the eggs of the pest. To achieve maximum effect, ticks should be reintroduced every 21 days.
Summer residents and gardeners are quite popular traditional methods The following are considered to combat spider mites:
- It is necessary to spray the cucumbers with a solution of soap;
- Flowering plants need to be planted;
- The Entomophthora adjarian mushroom is planted on the plot.
Greenhouse whitefly: signs and measures to combat the pest
- Signs by which whiteflies are recognized
If suddenly the owner of the greenhouse notices a tiny white midge, it could be a whitefly. It also comes in yellow or gray. It goes through the following stages of development: larva – nymph – adult – imago.
Throughout this period, she needs plant sap for her life. To get it, the insect makes punctures in a juicy young leaf.
An adult insect reaches no more than one and a half millimeters in length. The difficulty lies in the intensive reproduction of whiteflies. One individual lays more than 100 eggs. After a week or two, a huge number of children of the harmful insect are born.
A greenhouse is a place that is 100% suitable for whitefly activity. The air here is warm, the humidity is just the way she likes it.
What else is needed in order to reproduce at a rapid pace? If the air temperature in the greenhouse is high, the larva of a small pest will very quickly become an imago. That, in turn, will be able to fly and lay many eggs on the leaves of cucumbers.
Photo: Whitefly. You can notice a pest attack on cucumbers by the wilting of the leaves. The ripening process usually takes up to 25 days. Adult insects can live from 2 weeks to 1 month. As soon as the whitefly is born, until it dies, it will try to harm the plants in the greenhouse, no matter what stage of development it is at.
- How to deal with whitefly in a greenhouse
If you carry out preventive measures in a greenhouse with cucumbers planted, this is much more effective than then trying to get rid of whiteflies using force and means. Greenhouse owners need to remember to ventilate the greenhouse.
Note! Drafts are good, but small pests cannot tolerate them. The leaves of cucumber bushes should be inspected regularly to see if flies or larvae have appeared on the front or back side of the leaf. As soon as you suspect that a whitefly has become an inhabitant of the greenhouse, you immediately need to start fighting it!
There are certain ways to destroy the white pest. To choose a product, you need to look and decide on the number of whiteflies.
If plants are infected only on initial stage, it is worth using insecticides with an immobilizing effect. For example, it could be “Aktelik”, “Aktara”, “Vermitex”, “Confidor”, etc.
If plants are treated with these agents, insects will be paralyzed. They will not be able to move, which means they will not be able to eat, which will lead to their death within 2 days.
The drug that was sprayed on the plants lasts approximately 20 days. The larva will still continue its development, since it needs 25 days for this. The effect of the product will wear off until new adult insects grow.
In the case when the whitefly has already laid eggs, products for other purposes are suitable for use. These are: “Admiral”, “Mospilan”, “Match”, and others. The main thing is that they eliminate the larvae.
It often happens that to combat whitefly eggs and adult pests, products of groups 1 and 2 are used together. Be that as it may, it will be necessary to repeat the treatment with plant preparations in 5 days.
It is advisable to change pairs of drugs without repeating them twice. If the whiteflies are dark, it is worth repeating the procedure 3 times. You will have to show maximum patience, only then the result will please you.
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Verticillin is a drug that was created from an entomopathogenic fungus. The mushroom, if it grows into the body of a whitefly, will kill it with its toxic substances.
- What biological techniques are used to kill whiteflies?
This plant is native to Africa. Attracting the whitefly to itself, it will eat it, as the white pest will stick to its leaves.
Martinia fragrant (Harpagophytum procumbens (Burhc.) DS) is a plant that, due to its large hook-shaped fruit, is called “Devil’s Claw”. Synonyms: hooked plant, forest spider. - macrolophus;
- encarsia;
- Trihaporusi.
They are used both for preventive purposes and to reduce the number of white pests. The first species harms the whitefly in this way: they lay their eggs in the whitefly larvae, killing them in this way. The second species immediately eats the whitefly in its various stages of development.
Take 7 dandelions, separate the leaves and roots from them, cut them, pour 1 liter of boiling water over them. Spray the infusion on the cucumbers after 1.5 months.
If it is only the first stage of whitefly infestation, a garlic infusion will help: 100 g of garlic cloves are peeled, grated, passed through a garlic press, and 0.5 liters of boiling water is poured in. Leave for 4 days. Spray on plants based on the ratio: 5 grams of product per 1 liter of water.
An important point: in order for the mixture for spraying cucumbers to stick well to the leaves, you should pour a little liquid soap or shampoo into it. You can also use an adhesive - a special tool.
If a small number of these tiny pests are observed in the greenhouse, it is advisable to use sticky tapes and traps. They are sold in markets and stores.
You can make them yourself. A mixture consisting of wood ashes and shag is scattered near the roots of the plants, and mosquito repellent tablets are lit.
Photo: what a sprout fly looks like Sprout fly: what harm it causes and how to get rid of it
- Description
The sprout fly is distinguished by the fact that its larvae harm plants. The result of their activity is that crops are planted less frequently and seedlings die off. When sprouts and seeds have been damaged during transport, planting and other situations, the risk of them being susceptible to bacteria and pathogenic fungi increases.
The greatest damage is caused by larvae of the 1st generation. The next generations are no longer capable of causing such harm to plants, since the larvae, as a rule, harm adult, mature cucumbers.
- Methods for eliminating the pest
It is very important to carry out the following actions in order to eliminate the fly and its larvae:
In the fall, it is necessary to dig up the soil very deeply, and most importantly, bury organic fertilizers (manure) there. If left on top of the soil, the pungent odor will help attract flies.
Weeds must be constantly combated. They must be removed from the area where cucumbers are planted.
Photo: Sprout flies gnaw through seeds and damage the sprouts of cucumber and other crops. In mid-spring - summer flies and the development cycle repeats. Cucumber seeds should be planted in a timely manner. This will enable them to ascend quickly. Plants that have grown up are no longer of interest to flies.
Before sowing, the seeds must be treated using insecticides. Very effective, for example, “Fentiurama”. For 1 kg of seeds you need to take 3 g. For better fixation of this product on the seeds, the seeds are dipped in flour glue.
It is advisable to spray cucumber seedlings with Iskra. 1 tablet of this drug dissolves in 1 bucket of water.
Damage caused by slugs to cucumbers
Slugs are most active at night. It's theirs favorite time days when they, without fear sun rays, can enjoy cucumbers. Fruits suffer the most from them, since slugs prefer to eat the pulp out of them. They also harm the crop by leaving traces of their dark droppings and mucus on the cucumbers.
- How to deal with slugs in cucumber beds
An effective method is to sprinkle the soil with ash mixed with lime, digging the soil all the time;
The area must be kept clean. All plant residues must be promptly removed and burned.
Slugs love to hide. Why not use this to catch them? In the morning they will crawl under material, pieces of paper, boards, which in the evening will be prudently placed under cucumber bushes to attract them.
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It is worth considering the use of chemicals when there are a huge number of slugs. To combat these pests, a product called metaldehyde 5% was created. If you treat the plants twice, you won’t even have to think about slugs. It is necessary to scatter granules over the soil. Slugs, having eaten the bait, will die.
The use of copper and iron sulfate, ground superphosphate, and lime fluff is effective. After it has rained, these products will not work, since these products are water-soluble
The number of shellfish in cucumber beds can be reduced by using their natural enemies. It is worth considering attracting brown frogs, legless lizards, toads and other lovers of slugs to help.
Birds are also partial to them. Slugs attract the appetite of starlings, hooded crows, blackbirds, magpies and other birds.
Photo: Slugs. Like mole crickets, slugs can be lured into bottle traps using beer Funny pest - cucumber mosquito: control measures and prevention
Wherever this insect is found! Its name is very funny, but when it appears in the greenhouse and begins its activity, no one is laughing anymore!
It mainly kills weak plants suffering from diseases of the root system. The mosquito ends up under the film thanks to organic fertilizers, manure, and onion planting material.
Cucumbers suffer not from mosquitoes, but from their larvae.
- Methods for killing mosquitoes on cucumbers:
It is necessary to plant cucumber seedlings only when they are healthy.
"Actellik", "Chlorophos" and "Iskra" are those insecticides that have proven their effectiveness. To make the solution, dilute 1 tablet in a 10-liter bucket of water. This bucket is enough to process 100 square meters. It wouldn’t hurt to thermally sterilize the soil.
Photo: Root-knot nematode. Do not plant onions next to cucumbers - the nematode settles on onions (they love onions and thrips), and will easily move from there to the cucumber plot. Root nematode: what harm does it cause to cucumbers, description and methods of control
This is a worm 1.5 mm long. His favorite habitats are: greenhouses, greenhouses. Having penetrated the roots of the plant, the nematode settles there.
- How to find out that cucumbers are infected with this pest
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1. An infected cucumber bush lags behind similar ones in growth.
2. The harvest was obtained in a reduced volume.
3. You can observe that unsightly “bumps” have appeared on the roots - these are the places where nematode larvae mature.
- What to do to destroy the worm on cucumbers:
It is difficult to eliminate a nematode if it has already appeared in the greenhouse. It is worth taking preventive actions:
In the garden bed, in open ground, where cucumbers grow, you need to plant cabbage and garlic. Weeds, every single one, must be destroyed so that the nematodes have nothing to eat.
Every season they change the place where the cucumbers were planted, that is, monitor crop rotation.
The soil is watered with boiling water. Then cover it with film for 2 or 3 hours.
As soon as pests that destroy cucumbers are discovered, the top layer of soil must be removed. As an option, the soil is frozen, but the worms may not die.
When individual roundworms become visible, it is imperative to dig up the infected cucumber bush, as well as the bushes on the right and left. The roots and soil should be treated with a 5% formaldehyde solution or 2% carbation. The soil is covered with polyethylene.
Video: Soda for diseases and pests of cucumbers
Oksana Baranova, especially for
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Before the new planting season begins, it’s a good idea to talk about who is eating the cucumber seedlings in the greenhouse. Not only we humans enjoy eating crispy cucumbers; rodents, insects, and worms love to feast on this plant. You can lose all your seedlings in one night and not know who did it.
Greenhouse owners will agree that the main pests of cucumbers that affect adult plants and seedlings are whiteflies, wireworms, mole crickets, slugs, and fall armyworm caterpillars.
How to protect cucumbers from mole crickets
Cucumbers suffer from mole crickets both in open ground and in greenhouses. The pest is especially widespread in central Russia. It is possible that you have a mole cricket if cucumber seedlings or already grown plants dry out.
Sexually mature individuals - adults - overwinter deep in the ground. In early spring, pests wake up and lay eggs in their nests. There can be up to 500 of them in one clutch. Adults and their larvae damage the roots of cucumbers. They are attracted to cucumber beds with seedlings by moist, loose soil; pests make many moves in the ground. During the day, the pest sits in holes, and at night it eats the roots of cucumber seedlings.
To prevent the mole cricket from eating the seedlings, traps are made from manure. Fresh manure is the favorite delicacy of this pest. Trap pits measuring 50 by 50 cm are dug in the fall and filled with cow manure. When the temperature reaches below zero, the manure is taken out and scattered on the ground. The mole crickets are sleeping at this time, so they do not move and freeze.
You can protect newly planted cucumbers from pests with kerosene. To repel the pest, piles of branches or boards are laid out around the ridge and generously watered with kerosene. The mole cricket moves away from the fragrant beds. For those who prefer chemicals to protect seedlings, insecticides are suitable: “Thunder”, “Phenaxin”, “Grizzly”. Baits are prepared from them.
Who cuts the seedlings
A problem that many summer residents face: the cucumber seedlings, which were vigorously greening in the greenhouse just yesterday, have disappeared today. Stumps stick out of the ground, and cotyledon leaves lie nearby. Unknown pests chew through the stem and snack right at ground level.
It is difficult to determine who has eaten the cucumber shoots, since it could be a wireworm or a cockchafer larva. Gray cutworm caterpillars often gnaw young stems of cucumbers; they can be found if you dig up the ground next to a dead plant.
Larvae May beetles need to be collected while digging the ridge before planting cucumbers. Treat the sprouted plants with onion or garlic infusion; the worms do not like them. Chemicals are more reliable means of controlling pests (khrushchev). To get rid of it, you can safely recommend the following medications to summer residents:
- Nemabact;
- Aktara;
- Antikhrushch.
Wireworm
Wireworms are found in most regions located in the temperate climate zone. A wireworm is a larva of a click beetle that lives in the soil for a long time (2-5 years). In the second year of life, the larva eats the roots of the plant, leading to its death.
The wireworm, thanks to its dense chitinous cover, can easily penetrate the stems of adult cucumbers. The main vine of the cucumber, in which the wireworm has settled, becomes bent over time and gradually dries out.
You can reduce the number of pest larvae using traps. They are arranged in the spring in thawed soil, seasoned with chopped vegetables. To save cucumbers, the drug “Bazudin” is buried along the perimeter of the ridges; it is released in powder form.
Fall armyworm
The winter armyworm is a large (up to 2 cm) butterfly with a wingspan of about 5 cm; it lays eggs on any plants, including cucumber seedlings. If the stem of the seedlings at ground level has become thin or a stump sticks out of the ground instead, it means that the young cucumbers in the greenhouse are being destroyed by the fall armyworm caterpillar.
Caterpillars can reach a length of 5 cm, they are brown or dark gray (almost black) in color. Voracious pests live in the soil, eat underground parts of plants, and primarily damage the roots. To protect the root part from the cutworm, you need to add one of the following preparations to the holes before planting the cucumbers:
- Initiative;
- Zemlin;
- Bazudin.
As a preventive measure, when digging the soil, select and destroy caterpillars and larvae. Removing weeds is also an effective preventive measure against the fall armyworm and its larvae.
Who eats the seedlings
The real scourge of greenhouses has become the whitefly - a butterfly with a pale yellow body 0.9-1.1 mm long, the surface of two pairs of wings is covered with pollen white. The seedlings are eaten by butterfly larvae; their flat-round body is covered with small spines.
The female survives winter at temperatures of -12 °C. During the season, 10 or more generations of whiteflies can appear from one individual. The pest destroys cucumber seedlings and oppresses adult plants: the larvae suck out the juice and the adults carry fungal infection. It is very difficult to kill whiteflies.
You can determine that a whitefly is feasting on your cucumber by the following signs:
- white dots are visible on the leaves;
- sticky discharge is noticeable on the stem surface;
- cucumbers have curled leaves;
- on the bottom surface sheet plate larvae resembling scales are visible in cucumbers;
- If you shake the cucumber vine, white moths will appear.
How to protect seedlings from whiteflies
Protecting seedlings begins long before they are planted in the greenhouse. Every autumn, after harvesting, it is necessary to treat the soil and greenhouse structures with sulfur bombs, having previously cleared the ridges of plant residues. It is better to set fire to checkers at night. Remove the top layer of soil (5-7 cm) along with the pest larvae from the greenhouse.
You can speed up the destruction of the pest on cucumbers using homemade traps; for this you need to have the following on hand:
- castor oil (1 tsp);
- rosin (1 hour);
- honey (1 hour);
- Vaseline (1 hour).
Add the remaining ingredients to the heated rosin and mix everything. When the mixture has cooled, spread it on long strips of paper and hang the resulting strips in the greenhouse. The pest control system can be expanded using folk recipes or chemicals.
Among the folk methods, recipes for infusions are useful, the active component of which can be:
- garlic;
- yarrow.
To prevent the pest from eating fragile cucumber stems, treat with infusions at least once every 10 days. For those who do not trust traditional methods, chemistry will come to the rescue. Summer residents fight whiteflies with the help of drugs:
- Aktellik;
- Fufanon;
- Biotlin.
Slugs on cucumber seedlings
In the humid climate of greenhouses, slugs reproduce well; they can be found in almost any region of the European part of the country. The insect has no limbs, its surface is completely covered with mucus, it looks like a snail without a shell.
The active life of the pest begins at night; during the day it hides at a depth of 8 cm. At night, slugs gnaw through the lashes and leaves of cucumbers, and tender, young shoots are the first to suffer. The pest is very voracious and eats most of the leaves. When the fruiting period begins, slugs eat the ovaries and begin to gnaw on large cucumbers. A large percentage of your crop can be lost to slugs.
What to do to reduce the number of slugs in the greenhouse, each summer resident decides individually. Some people prefer to place baits made from tomato tops, lettuce leaves and cucumbers around the perimeter of the ridge against pests. Plant debris should be periodically destroyed along with slugs and replaced with new ones. Some pests can be removed by hand.
The pest has a very delicate abdomen; they will not climb into the beds with cucumbers if the entire perimeter is filled with any material from the list around them:
- sawdust;
- needles;
- coarse sand;
- nut shell;
- broken shells.
The most popular chemical preparation against slugs is “Thunderstorm”; it lasts for 3 weeks. During the season, at least 2 treatments will be required for pests. Another drug, “Slug Eater,” is used once during the summer; its effect is shorter and lasts only 2 weeks. The preparations are in the form of granules; they need to be laid out not only along the border of the ridge, but also between the bushes.
Aphid
Seedlings may die due to aphids if they used soil taken from the garden for planting and did not treat it against pests and diseases. Aphids are very prolific; up to 20 generations of the pest appear over the summer. Optimal conditions for active reproduction of the pest – high humidity and air temperature from 25 °C.
Aphids suck the juice from the leaves, petioles and stems of the cucumber. You can fight the pest using traditional methods. When the cucumber seedlings are still small, you can simply wash them with soapy water. It is difficult to wash adult bushes, so prepare herbal infusion with the addition of soap and spray the leaves and bushes against pests.
Who eats the seeds
The larva of the sprout fly causes great damage to cucumbers. All pumpkin crops suffer from this pest. Many summer residents complain about poor germination when sowing seeds. In some cases, the problem is in the seed, but if it is impossible to find its remains in the hole, this means that someone is eating all the cucumber seeds.
The seeds are eaten by germ fly larvae. This insect is gray in color, its body reaches 5 mm in length, and the pest's years begin in the spring. The fly lays its eggs in damp places and prefers to lay them on manure that is poorly embedded in the soil. Larvae appear within 10 days; over the summer, up to 3 generations of the pest can appear.
To prevent the spread of germ flies, simple measures are sufficient:
- dig the soil deeply;
- carefully embed the manure into the soil.
On the advice of experienced gardeners, the drug “Ant” can neutralize the larvae; when you plant seeds, you need to mix it with the soil and sprinkle it on the surface of the hole.
Information about pests and methods of combating them will help you take the necessary measures in time to save cucumber seedlings.