What can be fertilized with fresh manure and how.

Manure is the most commonly used organic fertilizer for gardening and an excellent means of increasing soil fertility. Almost no gardener can do without using organic matter; it is the basis of the soil structure - humus.

Features of manure fertilizers

In general, manure is a multiphase system consisting of solid, liquid and gaseous substances, and depending on the type of animal housing, it can be obtained in three forms:

• bedding-free manure (pure animal waste products, undigested particles of plant food);
• manure with bedding - straw, hay or sawdust, in greater or lesser quantities;
• slurry is, as a rule, manure drainage, when not only manure is collected, but also water after washing premises (boxes or milking parlor).

Naturally, manure in its pure form is more profitable to purchase, since it contains only fertilizer.

Straw manure, and even more so manure containing sawdust, has a limited area of ​​application and is less valuable for the gardener. Although, on the other hand, straw in fresh manure absorbs urine and absorbs ammonia, reducing nitrogen losses.

But slurry is not just a highly diluted “nectar”, part nutrients which will simply flow into the ground, but may contain various impurities, such as residues detergents, therefore, when purchasing manure, choose drier fractions.

Litter manure provides good structure to any type of soil and quickly replenishes the humus layer. However, when buying a manure machine, pay attention that the straw content is not too large (straw itself is much cheaper than manure), and the length of the straw cutting should be no more than 10-15 cm.

Types of manure

Manure comes in different origins:

• Mullein (from cattle)
• Horse manure
• Pig manure
• Rabbit, bird, etc.

Pig manure, as a rule, is rarely used in vegetable growing and floriculture - it is not readily available, but those who keep pigs can easily use it for feeding. It should be taken into account that pig manure has increased acidity and must be overheated for at least a year so as not to burn the plants.

Bird droppings fertilize the soil for up to one year, thereby being the fastest-acting remedy. Used dissolved 1:10.

Mullein is the most common and inexpensive manure; unlike horse manure, it is cheaper and more accessible.

Compound various types fresh manure:

• Cow: nitrogen - 0.5%, phosphorus - 0.28%, potassium - 0.6%, lime - 0.4%, pH 8.1
• Horse: nitrogen - 0.59%, phosphorus - 0.26%, potassium - 0.59%, lime - 0.21%, pH 7.9
• Pork: nitrogen - 0.8%, phosphorus - 0.58%, potassium - 0.62%, lime - 0.18%, pH 7.9

In addition, manure contains a number of minerals: sulfur, magnesium, calcium, boron, manganese, cobalt, copper, zinc, molybdenum.

Cow dung

Cow dung can be purchased from your local farming, private traders (from domestic cows) sell manure in buckets or bags. But in general, mullein can be purchased:

• fresh, just taken from the farmstead or farm, it should be of a thick consistency, unless diluted with water from waste water, then it is a non-flowing mass - bedding-free cow manure has the consistency of thick sour cream (humidity 70-75%), and straw manure easily holds its shape;
• half-rotted - lying in heaps for several months, considerably weathered and having lost 10–30% of the original mass and organic matter. If it was straw manure, then the bulk of the litter has rotted and crumbles easily;
• rotted manure or humus is decomposed manure; the bedding material in it cannot be distinguished either by structure or color from the total mass.

Fresh manure (mullein) is used both in spring and autumn, during the preparation of land for sowing or after harvesting the main crop and incorporating it into the soil. Mullein is first prepared in the form of a solution, diluted with water 1:10 and infused for 5 days. Manure can be used as biofuel when creating warm beds.

Semi-rotted manure can be used to prepare liquid fertilizers and for irrigation: dilute 1 kg per 10 liters of water; as mulch, placing 5-10 cm under the bushes of fruit trees and shrubs.

Rotted manure - ready-made humus is used as a component of the soil mixture for planting indoor flowers (diluted with garden soil 1:3 or 1:4), for preparing the soil in holes when planting (mixed with sand or in pure form), for planting, bushes and trees.

Application of manure

How to use manure depends on the crop being grown; in general, this fertilizer is suitable for almost all vegetables, fruits and berries. Only some plants accept it in any form, others do not tolerate only fresh manure, but respond well to the addition of humus.

Melons (zucchini, cucumbers), as well as cabbage, potatoes and tomatoes are especially responsive to feeding with mullein. Mullein is indispensable for feeding roses, peonies, clematis, dahlias, and lilacs.

Fresh cow manure for fertilizing in root irrigation should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.

Some gardeners use fermented cow slurry (it contains less nitrogen - the ammonia will evaporate). Plastic barrels are used for this. 1/3 of it is filled with manure, the rest is water. The solution must be mixed and left to ferment for a week. The fermented organic fertilizer is ready for fertilizing, but it must be diluted again with water 1:3 (3-4 buckets of water for 1 bucket of slurry). It is good to water berry plants with such fermented slurry - strawberries, raspberries, currants at the rate of 10 liters of fertilizer per 1 m² of land. Fertilizing should be done in the spring, at the time of the appearance of the first young leaves.

How to measure manure:

A standard 10 liter bucket filled to the top can hold:

• 8 kg of fresh horse manure;
• 9 kg fresh cow dung;
• 5 kg of manure on a bed of sawdust or straw
• 7 kg of humus;
• 12 kg of slurry.

What plants don't like fresh manure?

Fresh manure should not be applied to vegetables such as carrots and onions; legumes, beets, garlic, radishes, and radishes do not tolerate it well. But it is impossible to completely do without organic matter in growing these vegetables - manure is applied to the ground in the fall in a rotted form (humus).

Bulbous flowers do not tolerate not only fresh manure, but also insufficiently decomposed manure - in order to improve the soil before planting tulips, daffodils, lilies, manure must be applied 2 years before planting.

You need to be careful when applying cow manure to the grapes; if such a need arises, fresh mullein must be diluted very heavily - no less than 1 to 20, so as not to burn the berry fields.

An excess of organic fertilizers is dangerous for plants, it undermines the plants’ resistance to diseases - powdery mildew in cucumbers, late blight in potatoes and tomatoes, root crops suffer from gray rot, any vegetables overfed with organic matter are poorly stored.

How to make warm beds

Horse manure is more suitable for heating the soil - due to the large amount of grain residues (a feature of the horse's diet), it heats the soil more strongly (up to 55-60°C) and retains heat longer than cow manure.

At the bottom of the future bed (in a hole, trench or on the surface of the ground if the bed is lined with sides) in the fall we lay out a layer of drainage: branches, crushed stone, half-rotten pieces of wood. Next is a layer of tops, any plant residues, then a layer of manure, as much as you have at your disposal (on average 5-10 cm), then a layer of fertile soil. If the beds are very high (40-50 cm), then plant residues and manure must be laid in alternating layers.

In the spring, immediately after the snow thaws, you need to water the garden bed and cover it with non-woven material for several days. Then plant the seedlings.

A warm bed requires updating every 2-3 years.

A good harvest can only be obtained on good soil, and for the land to be good, it must be fertilized. When is the best time to fertilize the soil?- in spring or autumn? The timing of applying fertilizer to the soil is of great importance. Many agronomists believe that those who fertilize the land with manure removed in winter make a big mistake. The benefit is minimal. The soil should be fertilized in the spring, leaving the manure to lie for a month and a half before plowing. In this case, the efficiency of the fertilizer will almost double. The varieties, timing of application to the soil and the effectiveness of various types of fertilizers will be discussed in this article.

All fertilizers are divided into 3 main groups: organic, mineral and organo-mineral fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers

They, in turn, are also divided into 2 groups: animal origin and plant origin. Plant fertilizers include composts and peat, and animal fertilizers include manure and poultry droppings. When fertilized with organic substances, the structure of the soil significantly improves and this promotes the reproduction of living organisms, which benefit both the soil itself and the plants. There are also some disadvantages - an imbalance of nutrients may occur, weed seeds may be found in such fertilizer, and organic matter can cause plant diseases and attract toxic substances.

If you decide to use organic fertilizers, it is better to use compost. It is prepared quite simply: on an area of ​​about 10 square meters. meters, lay out straw 15 cm thick, then a layer of manure - 20 cm, a layer of peat - 15-20 cm. Phosphate rock and lime, mixed in a 1:1 ratio, are poured on top. For 1 sq. meter you need to sprinkle 50-60 grams of the mixture. A layer of manure 15-20 thick is once again poured on top. All layers are covered with a thin layer of soil and kept for 7-8 months.

As for fertilizing with manure, in our time the number of cattle has decreased significantly, and therefore we have to look for an alternative. Anything that grows and rots can be used as products of plant origin for fertilizer: mown grass, fallen leaves, tops and weeds, etc.

You cannot fertilize the soil with fresh manure.. Once in warm and moist soil, such fertilizer begins to actively decompose and release heat and gases, so the crop can simply “burn.” Fresh manure is used only for feeding mature plants, diluting it with water and watering the rows. You can also use dried manure, spreading it in a thin layer between the rows.

It is better to use manure if it has been sitting for at least a year - during this time it decomposes and turns into humus. It is worth remembering that in their pure form, manure and chicken droppings rot worse, so it is better to dilute these animal waste products with straw, leaves, sawdust and even shredded waste paper (it is better to take paper without printing ink).
IN organic fertilizer As is known, a smaller part of nitrogen is in soluble form, and a large part is part of insoluble organic compounds. When compost lands in the soil, it is attacked by myriads of soil creatures, eating, decomposing and transforming it. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, insoluble nitrogen gradually turns into a soluble form, which is what analyzes have shown: immediately after adding compost to the soil, the content of soluble nitrogen begins to steadily increase. And then everything depends on the growth rate of the above-ground parts of the plants. In potatoes, this process is so intense that it “eats up” all the nitrogen prepared for it by soil organisms, therefore, under potatoes, the content of available nitrogen in the soil remains low until the beginning of August and begins to increase only when the potato tops stop their vigorous growth. On carrots, where top growth is slow at first, the nitrogen content was quite high until mid-July, and then decreased in accordance with the increased growth of foliage.

When fertilizing in autumn plant nutritional elements are part of the soil organomineral complex, and the plant lives throughout the next season due to the gradual disintegration of this complex and the release of available nutritional elements. The speed of this process depends on the activity of the microflora, which is determined by external conditions: soil moisture, temperature, looseness, and so on.

In addition, organic fertilizer serves as a source of substances for soil microorganisms necessary for the formation of humus. When applied in autumn, organic fertilizer decomposes more slowly, and the process of incorporating it into humus is more intense and contributes to a greater extent to increasing soil fertility. If you regularly add compost or manure to the soil in the fall, you can create real black soil in your garden. When applied in spring, organic fertilizer decomposes faster and better supplies plants with soluble nutrients. This is important for plants, since spring and early summer are a period of active growth that requires abundant nutrition. Thus, autumn organic fertilizer makes a greater contribution to soil fertility, and spring organic fertilizer makes a greater contribution to plant nutrition. Both are important.

The following solution naturally suggests itself: add compost or manure in the fall, and in spring and summer we feed the plants with liquid fertilizers, which are easy to make: mullein infusion, fermented infusion of nettle or any weed. To enrich these nitrogen-rich infusions with phosphorus and potassium, bone or phosphate meal and ash are added. Another option is to add most or even half of the compost in the fall and the rest in the spring.

You can use green fertilizers. The main raw materials are ordinary grass and weeds. The green mass is finely chopped, placed in a large container and filled with warm water (10 liters of water per 2 kilograms of grass). All this should be fermented for 2 - 3 days, after which you need to stir and strain the solution. Then the plants are fed with it at the rate of 3 - 4 liters per 1 square meter. The procedure must be performed 2–3 times at intervals of a week. This solution is useful for vegetable and berry crops; it not only nourishes them, but also protects them from pests and diseases.

Mineral fertilizers

These chemicals should be used carefully and strictly according to the norm. Typically, gardeners and gardeners use nitrogen, potassium, manganese, lime and other types of such fertilizers. The most common nitrogen fertilizers include nitrate, urea, ammonia water and ammonia. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice a year - the first time around mid-April, and the second time in mid-November. The method of applying them is the same in both seasons - fertilizers are scattered by hand, and then the soil is cultivated. It is better if the ground is damp.
Potash fertilizers also significantly increase yields. Typically, potassium in the soil is in a form that is difficult to access, so the need of plants for it is great. It is better to apply potassium fertilizers in the fall along with manure before the main cultivation of the land.

Phosphorus fertilizers are also important for plants. Without this element, the formation of chlorophyll in plants is impossible, so the application of such fertilizers not only increases productivity, but also improves the quality of plant products. Phosphorus fertilizers are scattered on the surface of the soil, and then dug up to a depth of about 20 centimeters.

WITH mineral fertilizer we get the following picture. Immediately after application, a sharp jump in the content of soluble nitrogen was observed: it increased 5-6 times compared to the initial level and remained at a high level until approximately mid-July. Analyzes showed that at some point there was three times more soluble nitrogen in the soil than was added with mineral fertilizer. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that mineral fertilizer stimulates the decomposition of soil organic matter and accelerates the release of soluble nitrogen from it. The decomposition of humus under the influence of mineral fertilizers is a phenomenon that has even received a special name: the priming effect. But in mid-summer the peak gives way to a sharp drop, and the content of soluble nitrogen in both cases - with organic and mineral fertilizer - becomes the same.

It is not difficult to guess what consequences this has for plants. On mineral fertilizers they grow more intensively, develop abundant leaf mass and give a correspondingly higher yield, although this applies to different crops to a different extent: spinach and potatoes gave a significantly higher yield on mineral fertilizers than on compost, while beans and carrots turned out to be less dependent on nitrogen.

However, when studying the quality of the crop, the advantage turned out to be on the side organic fertilizer. This manifested itself in a lower nitrate content, and most importantly, in a significant reduction in storage losses. Both potatoes and carrots grown on organic fertilizers were less affected by fungal diseases.

Mineral fertilizers do not increase soil fertility, but rather destroy it. They can be used for fertilizing, but only in very moderate doses, so as not to cause excessive leaf growth and not to disrupt the activity of soil microflora. Moreover, it is worth applying mineral fertilizers only if organic fertilizers are applied in the fall, since soil with a high organic content partially removes the negative effects of mineral fertilizers.

Organo-mineral fertilizers

They are humic compositions of mineral and organic substances. Each drug is used according to an individual scheme, but there are also general rules. For open soil, spraying is used, and for closed soil, surface watering, drip irrigation, sprinkling and manual spraying on the leaves are used. For seed treatment, use 300-700 ml of fertilizer per ton of seeds, for foliar feeding - 200-400 mm per 1 hectare of crops, for spraying - 5-10 ml per 10 liters of water, and for drip irrigation– 20-40 ml per 1000 liters of water for irrigation.

Separately, it is worth mentioning plants that improve the soil. These include rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed, turnip and others. Until recently, only lupine was used to improve the soil, which enriched the soil with nitrogenous substances. mineral fertilizers, but recently other equally useful and effective plants have become known.

For example, after harvesting, you can sow the area with rapeseed, which will have time to sprout before the onset of frost and grow to a plant with 6-8 leaves in a rosette. In early spring, after the snow melts, it will begin to grow intensively and should be plowed into the soil before the beginning of May. After this, the earth will be enriched with mineral and organic substances and improve its structure. In addition, rapeseed contains a large amount of phytoncides, which destroy pathogens in the soil.

If there is a possibility of non-use land plot whole year, then you can sow it with oilseed radish. In this case, the soil will receive the necessary amount of nutrients, and there will be much less weeds. For one hundred the earth is coming approximately 70 grams of radish seeds. For uniform sowing, it is better to mix the seeds with river sand.

And a little more about how to properly prepare and fertilize the soil with manure.

We have already looked in detail at how to properly fertilize with chicken manure, now in more detail about manure. Manure of good quality is obtained where it is stored in stalls under livestock, trampled down daily, and covered with a new layer of straw. During daily removal of manure, it is stored in large manure storages, where it must be transferred to peat or soil for better preservation. It is also useful in cases of daily removal of manure to add about 1.5 kg of peat to the bedding or put in the gutters of the stables for each head of livestock, which, on the one hand, achieves air purification, and on the other hand, preserves the slurry, which contains the main nutrients substances for plants. When covering the manure and layering it with soil and peat, all the nitrogen. When stored in this way, manure usually acts strongly and quickly. Re-layering of manure with earth is done every 60-90 cm, and a layer of earth of 7-9 cm is applied. The richer the earth in humus, the better. A 60-90 cm layer of manure is again applied to this soil, which is again covered with soil in the same way. The manure is always trampled down. The bottom of the manure storage facility is usually lined with straw, a layer 60 cm thick. The straw must be trampled down. The manure storage facility itself is usually selected in a high place so that by-product water does not flow into it. The liquid water flowing out of the manure storage must be collected in special reservoirs, and the same liquid must be watered on top of the manure. Manure heaps should not be made higher than 2.5 m, because the lower layers of manure become too compacted and heat up. A big mistake is made by those who fertilize with manure , digging too deep into the soil. The more superficially the fertilizer is applied, the better, the faster and more accurate its action. The best thing is to fertilize with manure to the depth of one shovel. If the fertilizer is applied into the soil to a depth of 40 to 50 cm or more, as is unfortunately very often done when planting trees, then oxygen does not have sufficient access and therefore the fertilizer cannot decompose properly and produce the proper effect on the tree . Practice has often shown us that fertilizer applied too deeply was found in the soil after several years in the same form as when applied to the soil, and, therefore, absolutely no benefit came from it.

If you fertilize with manure in the summer, the fertilizer is always piled up in small heaps, broken up and plowed up as soon as possible. The heavier the soil, the finer the incorporation of manure. The decomposition of manure is accelerated if, on the fifth or sixth day after plowing, it is plowed back to the surface and mixed well with the soil. In most cases, it is also beneficial to roll the soil with a heavy roller after fertilizing with manure, since in this case the manure is pressed to the ground, which ensures its uniform decomposition and causes the rapid germination of weeds, which must be immediately destroyed.
When growing cabbage, strawberries and other plants, it is best to use humus from greenhouses or completely decomposed manure, because fresh manure contains a lot of weed seeds and insects are easily infested. Under the cover of humus, moisture is retained in the ridges; in addition, rain and water during irrigation wash out all the nutritious juices from the humus into the soil, thus, in one step, both fertilizing the ridges and moistening them is achieved. The humus should be placed in a layer about 5 cm thick, and the plants themselves should not touch the manure, otherwise they may rot. Strawberries should be fertilized with manure especially carefully so that the manure does not get into the core of the bush. Instead of humus, other substances are often used, such as chopped straw, chaff, moss, sawdust, etc.

When buried in the soil, straw and the other materials listed here can also serve as fertilizer, but they rot too slowly and, compared to humus, are too poor in nutrients. On calcareous and sandy soils that are too light in color, covering the ridges with humus is necessary to change their color so that the soil is heated more evenly. On dense clay soils and light sandy soils, crushed peat can be used for surface fertilization with complete success. In the fall, worn-out and completely weathered peat is dug into the soil when hoeing and in the first case loosens dense, heavy soil, and in the second it makes light, sandy soil more cohesive.

Green manure

Natural organic matter (manure, droppings) is not available to everyone, and it costs a lot of money. In the fight against weeds, just like a thousand years ago, you have to swing a hoe and crawl on your knees. If the summer is wet, potatoes are overcome by various diseases, and as a result, in the autumn and winter, there is a need to repeatedly sort the crop to remove diseased tubers.

Indeed, a lot of labor and money goes into dacha farming. Is it possible to ease the financial and physical burden that falls on a person who maintains a garden or dacha?

Yes, you can. Let's start with the fact that in the old days they avoided using fresh manure for potatoes. It was believed that it made the tubers tasteless and watery. Diseases accumulated in the soil were freed by applying fruit change. Of course, having several acres of land (each with an area of ​​1.1 hectares), it was possible to organize a three- or seven-field crop rotation. Nowadays, on six hundred square meters, this is a rather difficult task. But still the people do not despair - one sows barley, another sows winter rye, and the third dreams of growing peas together with potatoes.

CRUCIFULAR CROPS
The best option is to sow cruciferous crops as a green fertilizer, consisting of a mixture oilseed radish, white mustard, rapeseed. These plants have been known in world agricultural practice since time immemorial, being close relatives of cabbage plants. They came to us from ancient farmers East Asia and the Mediterranean. Cruciferous crops today are widely cultivated in economically developed countries (France, Germany, Holland, Sweden, etc.) as phytosanitary crops and as crops that increase soil fertility.

Oilseed radish- a powerful, highly branched and spreading plant 1.5-2.0 m high; with flower corollas ranging from white to purple. Not found in wild flora, wild ones are found field species. Cold-resistant plant, growth does not stop until late autumn, grows back after mowing. Compared to white mustard, it is more moisture-loving, shade-tolerant and productive. The seeds and pods taste like radishes. Blooms 35-45 days after sowing.

White mustard- was one of the magical plants of the ancient Greeks. Even today, having unique properties, serves as a classic object of study for science. The height of its shoots is slightly lower than that of oilseed radish, and the flowers on the clusters are yellow. Mustard is the fastest ripening annual plant. It reacts strongly to day length and photo period, so the highest yields are obtained during summer sowing dates - after June 22. Convenient for its early ripening and undemanding soil type.

Rape- about 1.2-1.5 m high, light yellow flowers. It is somewhat more demanding of heat than oilseed radish and white mustard. There are spring and winter forms, which can transform into each other. After the seeds ripen, the pods of spring rapeseed can open, then the sowing itself occurs and after overwintering in the spring, some of the young plants grow back in the form of a winter form. Sometimes another type is practiced - rapeseed. This is a more “wild” form, inferior to rapeseed in yield, tastes bitter and is less easily eaten by animals, but is better adapted to different types of soil. There are hybrid forms of rapeseed with kale and turnip (for example, Typhon), which are relatively more productive and stable in different climatic conditions.

USEFUL PROPERTIES OF GREEN FERTILIZER
What are they good for? cruciferous crops?

Here are 7 of their most distinctive properties:
1. To sow one hundred square meters of land, only 180-220 g of seeds are required. More dense sowing is used if the biomass will additionally be used for animal feed. Crops have a very high speed of development, so they can be sown at the most different terms, from May to September. Best time to receive high yield are June-July. In practice, it is re-sown 2-3 times per season. Flowering occurs 30-40 days after germination and lasts until the end of autumn. Flowering plants can withstand frosts down to - 6...8° and even - 12° C.

2. The green mass of plants contains the same amount of nutrients as cow manure: nitrogen - 0.5%; phosphorus - 0.25%; potassium - 0.6%. The mass of plant residues grown on an area of ​​100 m2 contains the following amount of mineral fertilizers (in conventional terms for chemical composition): 3-5 kg ​​of ammonium nitrate; 2.5-3.5 kg of superphosphate; 3.5-5.0 kg of potassium salt. In addition, green mass, when incorporated into the soil, deoxidizes it, acting similarly to the addition of lime, since it has an alkaline content of cell sap.

3. The underground part of plants has the ability to absorb nitrogen from the air, like clover and lupine. Root secretions dissolve mineral inclusions in the soil and convert microelements, phosphorus and potassium into a form accessible to subsequent crops.

4. Decaying cruciferous biomass releases substances into the soil that inhibit and suppress growth and development weeds. On a substrate rich in organic matter, saprophytic microflora rapidly develops, which displaces pathogens of agricultural crops from the soil.

5. After harvesting the green mass, together with the rotted residues, stimulants of plant growth and development from the class of brassinosteroids remain in the soil, increasing the yield and improving the quality of marketable products of subsequent crops.

6. Green mass is an excellent food for all types of animals and birds; it contains up to 30-35% crude protein based on dry matter. This is 2 times more than in clover and 3 times more than in barley grain. It is rich in vitamins, unsaturated fatty acids and various nutrients. Regular feeding, even in the form of a small supplement, strengthens immune system young animals, gives it resistance against viral and bacterial aggression. Young, not hardened shoots, having a sweet-burning taste of radish, are a delicacy for children. Radish pods are canned like vegetables. Mustard powder and medicinal ointment are prepared from ripened mustard seeds and used for various diseases and ailments.

7.The honey-bearing qualities of cruciferous crops are also generally recognized. Their main advantage is the release of nectar on days even with cold nights. Nectar contains an average of 120-180 kg/ha of sugars. Cruciferous crops provide honey collection in early spring (winter species) and in the second half of summer (spring species), when other honey plants have already faded. Honey crystallizes, so it is removed from the hives for the winter.

AGROTECHNIQUES OF CULTIVATION

Cruciferous crops can be sown with green fertilizer at any time - from early spring to late autumn. For sowing, a small (required) amount of seeds is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:50, scattered over the site and covered with soil. The optimal seeding depth is 2-3 cm. Cruciferous plants are not picky about the type of soil, but are responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers (if the soil is poor).

To some extent, shoots early dates crops can be damaged by pests; the likelihood of this fact is low in June and July crops. With sparse seedlings, there is no need to worry too much, since the yield size is capable of auto-compensation, that is, it depends little on the density (standing density) of plants per unit area.

When used as a green fertilizer, plant biomass during the flowering phase is mowed, crushed and embedded in the soil. This is the cheapest type of fertilizer, which cannot be compared with any other type in terms of early maturity and economic efficiency. In the northern regions, it is possible to “fertilize” the soil in this way twice per season. IN middle lane this can be done three times.

If the plot is half a hectare or more in size, part of the area can be taken out of cultivation for 3-4 years by sowing pink clover (on waterlogged and swampy soils), pink clover and lupine (on heavy clay soils), blue alfalfa and eastern goat's rue ( on medium and light loams), horned clamweed and yellow alfalfa (on light and sandy loam soils).

One of the basic rules of organic farming is to never leave the soil bare. Green manures that grow before, after or in between main crops create dense leaf cover. It protects the soil from weathering and mineralization of organic matter, reduces the leaching of nutrients into deep layers and retains them in the upper fertile horizon. This leaf cover plays the role of living leaf mulch, which is especially important for light sandy soils, which especially suffer from leaching of nutrients from the top horizon. Therefore, it is recommended, whenever possible, to sow green fertilizer on light soils in the fall and leave it for the winter, and in the spring to embed living or dead plants into the soil.

Green manure also plays an important sanitary role. First, it suppresses the growth of weeds, and in order to prevent it from becoming a weed itself, it must be mowed or covered before seeds form. This applies to rapidly growing and abundantly seeded rapeseed or mustard plants. Secondly, some types of green fertilizer help cleanse the soil of pests and diseases. For example, dense sowing of mustard significantly reduces the number of wireworms.
Green manure produces green mass that can be used as mulch or composting material.

Take care of the land on time and correctly and you will always have a rich harvest!

Abundant fruiting of cultivated crops is the result of considerable effort and compliance with all necessary conditions. Moreover, periodic feeding of planted vegetables and fruits with various types of fertilizers plays an important role in agriculture. If this is not done, the harvest will be meager and small. As a rule, problems in choosing fertilizers do not arise. After all, at specialized outlets there is such a huge selection: powders, granules, tablets, etc. Despite this, most experienced gardeners to this day use horse manure as fertilizer.

In addition, no less rarely, the soil is fed with horse feces. By the way, it is considered the most useful and effective among other organic substances. How is this fertilizer useful for plants? How to fertilize the soil with horse manure?

Horse feces contain many beneficial substances needed by plants. They are rich:

• Nitrogen;
• Potassium;
• Phosphorus;
• Calcium and other elements.

Thanks to this complex, the soil becomes more fertile, and as a result, the development of grown plants begins to occur faster. But, despite all the “privileges” of this product, not all gardeners consider it advisable.

What can be fertilized with manure? This is the question often asked by both experienced and novice summer residents. The answer is simple: almost everything, but it is important to follow application rates and follow recipes for making a nutrient mixture for plants.

Growth and development of garden plants, as well as bountiful harvests impossible without the application of fertilizers. Each crop must receive the required amount of macro- and microelements from the soil, which must be applied regularly. The most popular natural fertilizer is manure, which has been used by private farm owners for many centuries. It is this unique source of nutrients that we will talk about today.

The benefits of manure and its types

Manure is rich magnesium And calcium, which reduce soil acidity. Potassium And phosphorus are contained in manure in the most accessible form for plants, and nitrogen remains in the soil for a long time. Contained in manure microorganisms contribute to the formation of humus. Also, large amounts of manure are released into the soil. carbon dioxide, necessary for photosynthesis and heat exchange.

There are several types of manure:

• – the best type of fertilizer of this type. Suitable for planting in greenhouses and greenhouses. Within a week after this, the temperature of the manure rises to 60°C, remains for a month, and then drops to 30°C;
• – Suitable for all types of soil. It takes a long time to decompose and can be used from early spring until plants begin to bloom. It heats up to 50°C, but after a week it cools down to 30°C, so plants receive the required proportion of microelements only for a very short period of time. The normal color of manure is black;
• goat and sheep manure– very effective and “long-lasting” varieties of manure (they can be applied 4-5 times less frequently than horse and cow manure). It is especially good to use these types of manure on “cold” soils and for fertilizing garden plots;
• pig manure It is introduced mainly into greenhouses, and it is most effective only in conjunction with the active spring sun. Since pigs eat not only plant food, but also animal food, the composition of pig manure is more diverse compared to other species. It also contains plant residues from weeds and seeds, which effectively fertilize the soil. It can be used on any soil and is best mixed with horse manure;
• rabbit manure it is not inferior in efficiency to horse, but it can rarely be found in the right quantity, since there are not many rabbit farms;
• chicken droppings especially rich in nitrogen, potassium, magnesium and phosphoric acid. Land fertilized with chicken manure remains fertile even several years after the application of this fertilizer. It should be remembered that watering plants with solutions based on chicken manure should only be done at the root.

What can be fertilized with manure in spring?

You should start fertilizing with manure in the spring. For this purpose, a rotted substrate is used, the concentration of substances in which has already reached optimal values.

Apply fresh manure to spring fertilizer soil is not allowed, because due to the high content of uric acid and other aggressive substances, it can burn young plants.

Humus is applied in a continuous “carpet”, evenly distributing it over the area of ​​the site. The soil is fertilized with manure in early spring, before greenery begins to grow. Under fruit trees add 1-3 buckets of manure (volume 10 l), and under berry bushes no more than 1 bucket of fertilizer. In spring, the following crops are also fed:

• cabbage;
• potato;
• carrot;
• beets;
• tomatoes;
• garlic.

What can be fertilized with manure in the fall?

The second stage of applying fertilizers to summer cottage begins with the arrival of autumn. At this time, microelements are mixed with soil components and feed the plants gradually over the next 6-8 months. , since the accumulation of necessary substances in it occurs more actively. Therefore, autumn fertilizing with manure is considered more useful than spring fertilizing. The following plants are usually fertilized at this time of year:

• cherry;
• cabbage;
• potato;
• gooseberry;
• raspberries;
• carrot;
• cucumbers;
• beets;
• plum;
• currants;
• tomatoes;
• garlic;
• apple tree

How to feed tomatoes with manure

To prepare the manure mixture, dilute a bucket (10 liters) of manure in 30 liters of water. The resulting composition is infused for 3-5 days. Apply 2-3 liters of diluted manure per tomato bush. After this, the plants are not watered for 3 days. Apply the first fertilizing 20-25 days after planting the seedlings in the greenhouse. Subsequently, the manure composition is applied no more than once every two weeks.

You can also prepare a complex composition. To do this, dilute 0.5 liters of mullein in 10 liters of water and add 1 tbsp. nitrophoska. Apply 0.5 liters of the resulting mixture to each plant. Apply the second feeding when the second flower cluster blooms, and the third during the flowering period of the third cluster.

How to feed cucumbers with manure

Can be used to fertilize cucumbers fresh manure. Unlike rotted fruit, it has an alkaline reaction, and during decomposition it releases a large amount of nitrogen, which is necessary for the growth of this crop. Manure fertilizers perform especially well on acidified soils.

Cucumbers are fed with manure at least 4 times per season:

• first time- at the very beginning of flowering. Dilute 1 glass of mullein in 10 liters of water and add 1 tsp. potassium sulfate, superphosphate and urea. After watering, apply 0.5 liters of solution under each plant;
• second time- at the beginning of fruiting. Dilute about 0.5 kg of chicken manure, 3 tbsp. in a 10 liter bucket of water. ash and 1 tbsp. nitrophoska. Apply 1 liter of mixture under the bush;
• third time Cucumbers are fed two weeks after the second feeding. Dilute 1 liter of mullein with water in a ratio of 1:3 and dilute the resulting composition with 10 liters of water. If desired, add 1 tsp. potassium sulfate, urea and superphosphate. Water the beds with a strained solution at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 sq.m;
• fourth time cucumbers should be fed 2-2.5 weeks after the third feeding. Dilute 1 liter of chicken manure with water in a ratio of 1:3 and add 10 liters of water. Use 5 liters of composition per 1 sq.m.

How to feed other vegetables with manure

Other vegetables in the garden are fed with organic matter prepared according to the following recipes:

• white cabbage feed with manure twice a season: 20 days after planting the seedlings and 25-30 days after the first feeding. Dilute the fermented mullein with water 4-6 times and apply 0.5 liters of the composition under each plant. In dry weather, add the same amount of water for irrigation;
• zucchini feed with manure even before flowering. For 1 liter of mullein, take 10 liters of water and add 10 g of nitrophoska. Apply 1 liter of composition to each bush. During flowering, zucchini is fed again. To do this, 1 liter of fresh chicken manure is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 and 1 tbsp is added. complex fertilizer. The resulting mixture is diluted in 10 liters of water and 3 liters of the composition are added per 1 sq.m;
• potato does not respond well to the application of organic fertilizers and minerals. Manure allows only a little "improvement" . 0.5 liters of liquid mullein are diluted with 10 liters of water and 3-4 liters are added per square meter;
• carrot does not need much feeding with organic compounds. You can feed it only if the shoots are weakly developed. Bird droppings are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15, and slurry - in a ratio of 1:5 and the furrows between the beds are watered;
• red beets, perhaps, “likes” organic fertilizers most of all. The first one is done after 3-4 true leaves appear. For 10 liters of water, take 1.5 cups of mullein, 1 g of nitrophoska and the same amount boric acid. Apply the second fertilizing with a similar solution, but with 1 cup of mullein, during the growth of root crops. Don’t be afraid to overfeed the beets; excess nutrients will not harm them.

How to feed roses and other flowers with manure

Not all flower growers want to “spoil” the aroma of a country flower bed unpleasant smell manure But now there are manure concentrates on sale that are intended for use even indoors. In addition, to feed garden and indoor flowers, you can use mullein or horse manure with a less pungent odor.

It is undesirable to use sheep and pig manure, as well as waste from pets, to feed flower plants.

For feeding any flower plants suitable, initially diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4, infused in a loosely closed container for 3-4 days, and then diluted again with water in a ratio of 1:15.

Roses, dahlias And peonies fed with horse or rotted cow manure. Add 1 kg of manure to 10 liters of clean water. After a day, dilute the mixture with water in a ratio of 1:2 and water the flower beds.

Under perennial flowers the soil is prepared in the fall and about 10 kg of rotted organic matter is added per 1 sq.m. Upon landing one- And biennial flowers the soil should be dug up or loosened. And before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, add up to 5 kg of rotted manure per 1 sq.m.

How to feed strawberries with manure

For feeding garden strawberries(strawberry) manure is used most often because it is difficult to find best option to enrich and saturate the soil useful substances. You need to feed strawberries twice a season:

• first feeding carried out in the spring when berries appear on the bushes. To do this, use mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Under each bush, add 0.5 liters of the composition;
• second time Strawberries are fed after harvesting. Before the cold weather sets in, plants need to receive a supply of nutrients to make it easier for them to survive the winter. Shortly before the first frost, spread fresh manure between the rows and leave it like that until spring. Over the winter it forms humus, which can be reused.

How to feed trees and bushes with manure

It is best to use for feeding trees and bushes. rotted manure, which was aged for 2-3 years before use. This supplement is great for apricot, plums, cherries And other stone fruits, and also for apple trees, pears And coniferous plants (pine, spruce, juniper, yew, thuja, etc.). Fresh manure usually applied once every 2-3 years (2-3 kg per 1 sq.m.) in the fall for plowing or digging. In other cases, the manure should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5 and left covered for a week. Fertilizer is applied after. Repeat feeding in the summer no later than the second half of July.

Berry bushes They usually feed in the fall; to do this, add 2-3 buckets of fresh or rotted manure under each bush.

Now you know that you can feed almost any crop with manure and you need to do it regularly. Experiment with different types manure to determine which organic fertilizer option is most suitable for the plants in your area.

Every gardener knows that it is impossible to ensure proper growth, development, flowering of plants, as well as good harvests, if the soil is not fertilized. Every plant growing in your garden simply needs to get nourishment from the soil. But even if the land was lying fallow or was used for other crops, it may not have enough of the necessary elements. And then the seedlings or seedlings will not be able to receive nutrients in sufficient quantities.

The natural and most famous fertilizer is manure, a natural source of microelements, without which the full functioning of plants is impossible.

Plants by their very appearance will immediately tell you that they are missing something. They will grow worse, changes in the size and color of the leaves will begin to occur, their color will not be so bright and vibrant, and the roots may die off.

Therefore, when caring for a vegetable garden, garden, greenhouse, flowers and wanting to see plants in excellent condition, you will certainly have to use fertilizers to care for them.

When and how to fertilize plants with manure?

There are only two ways to apply fertilizer: refill the soil or feed the plants.

Soil refilling is a one-time application of organic fertilizer just before planting plants directly into the ground in the fall or spring, when you loosen the soil. If you combine them with mineral ones, you can get an excellent effect. When digging up a vegetable garden or empty beds, fresh manure is added to the soil only in the fall. But with fruit trees will have to be handled with care. Fertilizer can burn the roots if it comes into contact with the bark. But you can lay manure in early spring.

Fertilizing should be carried out during the development of garden and vegetable crops. If you feed garden plants when they are growing, blooming and bearing fruit, this will certainly affect the quantity and quality of the harvest. By feeding flowers, you will provide them with bright, colorful blooms. And it is better to make fertilizer in liquid form.

Fertilizing garden crops

A few plants that benefit from fresh manure include cucumbers. The fertilizer will give an alkaline reaction and nitrogen. And cucumbers really like this. They are fed 4 times:

• at the beginning of flowering;
• at the beginning of fruiting;
• in another half a month;
• in another 2-2.5 weeks.

Cauliflower requires feeding twice. First, one and a half to two weeks after planting, and the second time - when its head becomes the size of a walnut.

White cabbage is also fed twice.

Tomatoes are fed for the first time when 20 days have passed from transplanting to the beds, with the appearance of the second flower cluster - a second time, and with the flowering of the third cluster - a third time.

Table beets love manure dressings. With them, excellent harvests are obtained even where it grows poorly. With the appearance of the third or fourth leaf, the first feeding is done, and when the root crops begin to fill, the second. And don't be afraid to overfeed her.

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Before flowering, start feeding the zucchini. Later, during the flowering period, this is done again.
When the third true leaf appears, feed the pumpkin.

But carrots may need fertilizing only if the crops are poorly developed. Because she usually doesn't tolerate it well.

Potatoes react little to fertilizing.

Feeding flowers

If your flowers are annual, you will need to feed them twice:

• a couple of weeks after the seedlings are planted in the ground;
• when flowers form buds.

For perennial flowers, three times of fertilizing will be required:

• as soon as the soil dries out in the spring, loosen and fertilize it;
• when buds appear;
• as soon as the flowers fade.

In this case, they will have enough strength to survive the winter, and they will be able to lay good buds for the future.

When feeding plants, it is important to remember that you should not fertilize them in the heat and at noon. If drops of water get on the leaves, they act like a magnifying glass and can cause burns.
Every gardener should know that there are conditions when flowers do not need to be fertilized.

• If the flower is dormant.
• If the snow has not melted and the earth has not warmed up. It is necessary to wait for the water to recede and seize the moment when the soil is still wet.
• If you have recently transplanted flowers.
• If flowers show signs of infection.

Suitable organic fertilizers

Most flowers prefer organic. The basis of such fertilizers is the residues various organisms, and microelements, through their active actions, contribute to their decomposition.

The most commonly used organic fertilizers are animal manure and bird droppings.

Manure is a fertilizer that acts slowly, gradually. And this is another value of it. It should not be scattered or left on the ground or in small piles. Manure must be immediately buried in the ground. In the spring, you can dig it up again before planting, but under no circumstances leave the manure waiting for spring digging if you don’t want it to lose its quality.

The composition of manure is different for all animal species. It is impossible to imagine rich harvests of many vegetable crops, bright bloom roses, peonies, dahlias without appropriate feeding with manure.

Bird droppings have the highest concentration of nutrients. Goat, sheep and horse manure are given second place. The latter belongs to pork, as it is the weakest in terms of the presence of useful elements in it, and it is also highly acidic.
Manure is usually stored in heaps covered with peat or straw (hay) and it must lie for six months, no less. Regular manure contains a high content of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, which are so necessary for plant growth and flowering. By adding manure to the soil fresh, you risk harming the roots of young plants and burning them, because its activity is very high. Therefore, it is recommended to use manure in the form of liquid fertilizer.

It is best to fertilize garden and vegetable plants, flowers with cow and horse manure. Moreover, mullein (as they call it) must first rot, but horsetail can be used fresh for feeding. By the way, mullein is the most popular.

As a rule, greenhouses, beds, and flower beds are fertilized with liquid manure. It is not at all difficult to prepare; one kilogram of manure must be infused for 24 hours in ten liters of clean water. Use this fertilizing with diluted water in a ratio of 1:2. After such watering, you can loosen the soil or mulch.

Details about types of manure

Cow dung. Not uncommon at all. Suitable for all types of soil. It takes a long time to decompose, so it can be used from early spring until the flowering period of plants. The best effect can be obtained from half-rotted manure that has lain for a year or six months. Requires tedding and tossing. Identified by color. It is usually black, and its components have not yet become dust. It acquires its greatest value after three years.

Useful properties and disadvantages of mullein

Pig manure. It is rarely used in the garden. It will take several years for the substances in it to be absorbed. Its decomposition is slow. If you decide to fertilize with it, it is worth remembering that you can expect little benefit from it for a long time.

Bird droppings. The most accessible, but very insidious. Its excess can burn all your plantings and, moreover, render the soil unusable for a long time.

You can prepare an infusion from it in the same way as you did with cow or horse manure; it will take almost two weeks to infuse. Usually half a liter of infusion is diluted in a bucket of water. This solution is used to pour the roots of plants. Although it should be borne in mind that bird droppings themselves are fast-acting fertilizers. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it too often, otherwise nitrogen will accumulate in large quantities in the soil. So if you want to use it in solid form, just cover up the manure before digging in the fall.

Horse and sheep manure. Fast decomposing organic fertilizers. Can be used fresh. Roses are especially fond of horse manure.

Rabbit droppings. Excellent organic fertilizer. It is recommended to use in liquid form. To feed, it should be infused with water for a week in a ratio of 1:10. Winter droppings can be spread as mulch directly under the plants and without worrying about their safety. Rains and watering will activate fertilizing and enrich the soil.

Pay attention! Under no circumstances should you try to use cat and dog excrement as fertilizer or put it in compost. Even more than that! If you see their “traces” in the garden, remove them. They are not just not useful. They are harmful.

Infusions of pure manure in combination with the above-ground parts of individual plants serve as excellent fertilizers. Among them, comfrey and nettle are of particular value. First you need to infuse a kilogram of green mass with 10 liters of water for two weeks. And before watering, mix the infusion, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, with manure.

Manure is often used as a component of compost. The compost heap is placed in a dry place. Manure, straw, leaves, peat, and weeds are dumped together, covered with ordinary soil and periodically watered. After a year, the fertilizer is ready and can be applied to the ground, mixing it with the soil.

In order for plants to grow, develop, bloom and bear fruit correctly, every sprout in your garden or home must receive additional nutrition. Therefore, if you want your plants to be in excellent condition, do not forget to use fertilizers when caring for them. And then they will thank you with rich harvests and lush flowering.

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